Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone with a aftermarket FMIC on their m35 ...what was the dimensions you used without having to butcher the front bar to buggery?

and was that a relatively easy fit?

Doesnt need to be huge. infact id rather it quite thin but long. Anything has to be better than the standard one on there.

any feedback on dimensions would be great so i know what to buy before tearing the front bar off.

cheers

keir

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336689-m35-fmic-dimension-limitations/
Share on other sites

anyone with a aftermarket FMIC on their m35 ...what was the dimensions you used without having to butcher the front bar to buggery?

and was that a relatively easy fit?

Doesnt need to be huge. infact id rather it quite thin but long. Anything has to be better than the standard one on there.

any feedback on dimensions would be great so i know what to buy before tearing the front bar off.

cheers

keir

Mine has a 600 x 220 core now I modified it, bolts under the bar, just.

Most of the guys run a standard 600 x 300 but you have to remove the thermo fan and replace it with a thinner one, core sits behind the bar.

I used to run a 450 x 300 which fit beside the thermo fan motor but it wasnt ideal.

There is enough width to run maybe 800mm if you really wanted but you are stuck with standard core sizing usually.

yeah i was thinking something along the lines of this.

but its a bit short.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

you reckon its feasible?

or should i go something longer and thinner?

Best cooler will be a 600 x 300 x 76 and a thinner fan, The HDI kit would be the go if you have the coin. All the piping is plastic and will need to be changed so factor that in.

Do you have a power goal? Mine keeps raising... ;)

Best cooler will be a 600 x 300 x 76 and a thinner fan, The HDI kit would be the go if you have the coin. All the piping is plastic and will need to be changed so factor that in.

Do you have a power goal? Mine keeps raising... ;)

I've got the HDI FMIC kit....no complaint's and easy to install yourself....big improvement over the standard one especially in summer.

yeah i was thinking something along the lines of this.

but its a bit short.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

you reckon its feasible?

or should i go something longer and thinner?

If you want one that will fit nicely under the reo, maybe look at this Trust unit?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TRUST-GReddy-Interc...9#ht_1694wt_911

Is looking more and more like the way I go and get some 1-piece mandrel bent inlet and outlet piping done locally.... will have to make up your own brackets though

But then again, I am not going for 300awkw

Edited by iamhe77
hrm i can afford the HDI kit... is anyone still supplying them.. i saw danny or someone in another thread was making up kits or am i mistaken?

You'll have to contact Josh (I think?) at http://www.hybrid-power.com/index.php]HDi

02 9620 7388

[email protected]

Edited by iamhe77

Hey mate,

For a little variety I went the Blitz CS FMIC kit for the M35 from Just Jap. Cheaper than the HDi unit also (last time I checked). It was $999 + around $50 postage to the Gold Coast. If you would like to see it/drive it, come on down.

Blitz FMIC

Core Size - 620 x 266 x 76mm. Only the reo bar had to be cut back a tiny bit. Could not be happier though.

Cheers

PS: Glad theres more M35s in Qld now.

Hey mate,

For a little variety I went the Blitz CS FMIC kit for the M35 from Just Jap. Cheaper than the HDi unit also (last time I checked). It was $999 + around $50 postage to the Gold Coast. If you would like to see it/drive it, come on down.

Blitz FMIC

Core Size - 620 x 266 x 76mm. Only the reo bar had to be cut back a tiny bit. Could not be happier though.

Cheers

PS: Glad theres more M35s in Qld now.

You cut back the alloy reo? How is the air going to flow to that part of the cooler? Maybe you should have put a thinner fan on instead.

You cut back the alloy reo? How is the air going to flow to that part of the cooler? Maybe you should have put a thinner fan on instead.

I had just replaced the fan with a new OEM one so I was not going to do that again. Plus, it was my Mechanic who did it without telling me prior to him installing it. Sucks to be me.

Hey mate,

For a little variety I went the Blitz CS FMIC kit for the M35 from Just Jap. Cheaper than the HDi unit also (last time I checked). It was $999 + around $50 postage to the Gold Coast. If you would like to see it/drive it, come on down.

Blitz FMIC

Core Size - 620 x 266 x 76mm. Only the reo bar had to be cut back a tiny bit. Could not be happier though.

Cheers

PS: Glad theres more M35s in Qld now.

hmm... Hdi's kit should set you back around the $800 mark. Can't remember if that included shipping or not though.

Also, the HD' GT2 core is significantly more efficient than the Blitz unit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...