Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Exhaust Temp Light With Pfc

EdGTR

By EdGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EdGTR Enthusiast

EdGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi all.

Ive just had my R32 GTR on the dyno and was quite happy with the results but when the car was at the shop the exhaust temp light came on and just stayed there. The light can not be operated by the original sensor as it and its wiring are long gone. I got home and did some serching and there seemed to be some mixed ideas about what can bring it on. My car has a Power Fc and has been perfect for years with never seeing any lights at all until now.

I can confirm 100 percent that R32 GTRs use this as their warning light. I looked at the car and while the laptop was plugged in the pfc boost control had been turned on and i dont run boost control so it bought up the exhaust temp warning light. I turned it off and the light went away.

All Good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336839-r32-gtr-exhaust-temp-light-with-pfc/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ed's post is saying that on BNR32, there is no engine check light so the PFC uses the exahust temp light as the "engine check light"

cars such early model RX7 also do this, they use exhaust temp light as the engine check light instead

thanks for confirming ed

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted
I thought the car won't start if boost controller is set to on in PFC and apexi boost kit isn't being used

I found it would eventually start with a lot of accelerator but wouldn't idle or run properly at all.

Never had this problem with an Rb25, it just illuminated the check engine light.

GTR was very different.

EdGTR Enthusiast

EdGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah just on the R32 gtr as far as i know. It started and ran fine but the boost was down a couple of pounds as im guessing since it was looking for the apexi one it stopped doing anything with the original. When i turned it back to off the boost went from 10sih to mid 12 psi. I still had the factory restrictor in. I didnt think that it would do anything with the factory solenoid but it seems to.

Live and learn.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...