Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i bought this setup not long ago to put in my 180 but unfortunatly things have changed for me and if i can make most of what it cost me back ill be selling it up.

basic rundown.

RB26DET

sard 600cc injectors

tomei poncams

modded sump for rwd

unknown bottom end. can only be presumed standard.

Heavy duty clutch

loom etc.

$3800

T78 33d kit.

trust mani

hks 50mm gate

dump pipe

turbo looks to be in really good condition other than some slight marks on the comp wheel (run with no filter)

$2900

Power fc

Greddy twin intake

Z32 AFMs

fc commander

$1400

trust oil cooler kit.

sandwich plate etc all lines included with earls fittings

$800

i have other little things like stock ecu, a/c compressor etc.

nothing will be seperated until ive sold the motor/turbo kit.

cost for all of the above complete is $7600 firm.

post-29077-1284532170_thumb.jpg

Edited by boostd gem

interested in the turbo kit.

what power did u make with this setup at what rpm. do u have a dyno graph?

what is a t78 rated at horsepower wise?

thanks

julz

for anyone interested, this wasnt run without a air filter, so no worries there, it's just one of the air filter's was damaged so i didnt worry giving it to him. they were run with blitz twin pods so there is no issue there. I'm also pretty sure this engine runs oil restricters due to the oil pressure readings it was getting (always really good).

this engine is built for huge power, if that's what u want, then u cant go past this package.

Is this your old engine nisskid?

yeh mate, really strong engine, and the T78 was amazing, i didnt wanna get rid of it, but had to let it go as i was in too much debt because of it haha

i just wanna see someone get this and give it a proper tune, see what it can do, i lost the tune not long after i bought the car and was too retarded to work the boost controller, so it ran on a base map and 12psi for most of the time i had it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...