Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok ill try and explain it as clear as possible. First of all the problem is on an RB25DE R33 Series 1.

Maybe 1 month ago the problem worsened and the car would cut out and not rev past 2500, would die on idle and sounded like a rotary. So took out the AFM and resoldered the joints inside.

Now the car is drivable, when you first start it, without throttle it will die. Starting with throttle works but for the first 30 seconds if there is no throttle the revs drop below 500 and will die unless you accelerate.

When driving the car it runs fine until about 3k and if you change gears at this point it's fine but if you put your foot flat to the floor the revs climb extremely slow after about the 3k mark and is hence really slow. My point is that the AFM is stuffed or the wiring because the lower revs are fine because its better lean but once it hits the higher revs when its supposed to richen up it doesn't and therefore is really slow. (Incorrect signal from AFM?)

I took the cover off the AFM and with the key switched to on the AFM reading was 0.25v give or take 0.05v. On idle the reading was 1.5volts so only a bit higher than the 1.1v that it should be. When i revved it i didn't see it go past 3volts.

Firstly are these readings acceptable or should i just replace the AFM?

Secondly i tried checking the voltage of the plug to see if this was a problem by measuring the reading of the negative terminal on the AFM plug and the earth of the car and got 0 volts. The manual did not suggest what is right or wrong for this test.

The manual suggested to test the ECCS relay and ECCS loom.

Is the ECCS relay behind the computor(behind passenger kick panel)??

Any help is useful, i want to get it fixed by the end of the holidays so i can drive it to school :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337044-faulty-afm/
Share on other sites

Eliminate the possibilities one at a time. Swap the AFM - if that doesnt solve it, move onto the next item. Check the ECU loom (and even try swapping one) make sure there is no dodgy looking wiring (eg. cut wires with bad connections). I'd also definitely be inspecing coils, plugs, ignitor module, even fuel pump. It is a 17 year old car - maybe even your injectors are worse for wear...

Maybe even try doing a diagnostic / check for error codes

hope you sort it out mate, good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337044-faulty-afm/#findComment-5450629
Share on other sites

Have you tried running the car with afm unplugged...

I had a dodgey afm

Mine ran fine with it unplugged but wouldnt idle and sounded like a rotary when it was plugged in...That said i didnt try driving it whilst unplugged but it idled fine..

not really sure why this is but try it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337044-faulty-afm/#findComment-5450648
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions, shold of mentioned but didnt want to ramble... Ive got new superspark ignition coils in the car, i pulled out the injectors and had them cleaned. I did run the car with the AFM unplugged but didnt go for a drive, the thing is the problem is only when driving the car that it doesnt rev freely, when in nuetral its fine.

As for diagnostics check before resoldering the joints it showed error code 12 - AFM and still shows the same thing, i did reset the computor. Ive put different plugs in it recently but i might change em back cause i wasn't too sure about them, im thinking if it's the ignitor then it wouldn't start so i don't think its that but it's just a thought.

I might test the fuel pump too, it does make the buzzing noise when turning the key to on which i dont remember it doing but ive got a poor memory and dont have any cars to compare with.

I dont want to buy a new AFM and it turns out its not that thats the problem, i dont want to waste too much money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337044-faulty-afm/#findComment-5450799
Share on other sites

Alright thanks for the suggestions, the best option is to replace the AFM because it is 17 years old so hopefully i can get one new for cheap around here. If i still have problems then i'll do the checking of the loom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337044-faulty-afm/#findComment-5451881
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...