Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone thought it maybe has popped a hose off?

yeah thats wat i was thinking.

i read on here that if it pops a hose off u can unplug the afm so it goes into limp mode and the car will actually idle. any1 else heard of that or is it bs?

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok guys, Had another play with it just then..

I put the stock BOV back on and check everywhere I could for any air/vacuum leaks but couldn't find anywhere I could possibly imagine one occurring..

After I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery again (still not sure how I can tell if this works?) and started the car it did the same thing.

Originally it appears to idle fine until a few small pumps on the accelerator (of which it struggles to spool and revs very roughly) then it has trouble idling again??? after reving it a bit it then also starts to pump out black smoke again and shutters. I had a look in the bay while it was idling also and you can notice how much it shutters by looking at it (for some reason it appeared to me to be the turbo that was causing it). So I still think its the turbo that has shat itself but still hope ive missed something????

Does anyone know any good mechanics in the Geelong/Warrnambool area that actually knows what they are looking/talking at/about that may be able to solve my problem???

Cheers,

Dallas

black smoke is generally way too much fuel not dead turbo, another vote here for a popped hose or vaccuum leak. get someone who knows what they're looking at to check your hoses and pipes.

if you're around geelong, a workshop i've had good experience with for basic mech stuff is Dalton Auto-

http://www.daltonautomotive.com/

good luck

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Just an update. I've booked my car into a decent mechanic finally to fix whatever problem I have (suspected vacuum leak I can not find). But just wondering what does it mean when I disconnect the AFM? I disconnected it and the idle started to change then stalled seconds later?

Cheer. Hopefully she'll be up and going soon :D

  • 1 month later...

In the shop as we speak... Been told it was just a bad exhaust leak and all my gaskets had been burnt out and it was getting confused or something.. getting the new tune and all fixed up by start of next week, will let u all know what the solution was ;)

I'm having a slightly similar problem except my car is pretty much stock, apart from cat-back. My revs start to fluctuate between 100 - 1500 rpm in idle, but only after a bit of driving (when car is warm). If I try to drive when this problem kicks in, I can feel the car pull back timing hard which means no power from the engine.

I've tested for vacuum leaks and cleaned AFM but still problem exists. Going to clean AAC valve this wkend but i'll be waiting to hear what was wrong with your line once it gets out of the shop.

In the shop as we speak... Been told it was just a bad exhaust leak and all my gaskets had been burnt out and it was getting confused or something.. getting the new tune and all fixed up by start of next week, will let u all know what the solution was :(

be aware there is nothing to tune on the std ecu... so dont pay for one. A tune on a std ecu is a reset... ie removed battery terminals for more than 30 secs... then doing the timing.

Changed plans.. picking up on wednesday.. will let all know what the result is then..

As for the tune I actually purchased a PFC (as well as other bolt on parts) so it can all be done properly and actually worth while..

I also thought that an exhaust leak wouldnt cause this but thats what im currently being told. I believe the leak was from the manifold gasket but all the bolts on the exhaust had come loose apparently??

Will know alot more when I actually go to pick her up so will update then..

Cheers

i doubt all these problems would be caused because of an exhaust leak...

yeah you could pull the whole exhaust off and all that would happen is it would run a bit more boost and run a bit richer and more retarded timing.

Got her back wednesday

Final verdict that it was the terrible exhaust leak from the manifold gasket that was the major cause. Had this all fixed up with a new dump and front pipe inserted aswell.

Also had, full tune, FMIC, BOV, manual boost controller, repaired turbo water hose, heat wrapped, flush n bleed of coolant system also done..

After the tune she puts out 222.6rwkw (on 14psi) which I very happy with as I was only hoping to break 200.. runs very smooth now and has a lot more aggression ;)

post-68489-1290759368_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...