Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Someone To Make Up An Intake Pipe(melb)


Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm after someone to make me up an intake pipe for my r34 GTT. Preferably stainless 3". I require 'barbs/nipples' for bov and circ. If anyone can fabricate this or can put me onto someone who can please let me know. I live in Melbourne SE suburbs and can drive car to you for trial fitting.

I pay cash :P

Thanks, James

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi all, I'm after someone to make me up an intake pipe for my r34 GTT. Preferably stainless 3". I require 'barbs/nipples' for bov and circ. If anyone can fabricate this or can put me onto someone who can please let me know. I live in Melbourne SE suburbs and can drive car to you for trial fitting.

I pay cash :)

Thanks, James

I accept cash. :D

PM'd.

Hi all, I'm after someone to make me up an intake pipe for my r34 GTT. Preferably stainless 3". I require 'barbs/nipples' for bov and circ. If anyone can fabricate this or can put me onto someone who can please let me know. I live in Melbourne SE suburbs and can drive car to you for trial fitting.

I pay cash :rofl:

Thanks, James

ebay bro you can find a intake pipe their for 125 with all silicon pipes and o rings as well delivered have a look for them 

ebay bro you can find a intake pipe their for 125 with all silicon pipes and o rings as well delivered have a look for them 

Silicon pipes are good if you want to dress up your engine bay, but to produce the horsepower a larger intake is required. Silicon tends to suck shut with higher boost pressure. Appreciate the help though.

Thanks mate, How did it go? Any reversion with that 80mm pipe?

It went very well, there didn't seem to be any reversion but due to the wet road I couldn't really push it. Thanks again mate, will keep you posted in regards to tune.

this is the one i made up..

p183901170910.th.jpg

Are you venting the BOV? What about the crankcase ventilation?

The hard part to making these is the reversion when the BOV releases, causing metering issues with the airflow sensor.

Talking about intake pipes, I knocked up a new intake pipe for my R33 on the weekend! :-)

I borrowed my friend's tig welder and used some piping I had at home.

2.5" on the turbo end, 3" on the airbox end.

Fits the standard turbo and retains the factory airbox, BOV return and breather line.

Makes a crazy intake sound too! Siiiik!

post-55684-1286244985_thumb.jpg

post-55684-1286244994_thumb.jpg

post-55684-1286245003_thumb.jpg

[PS- sorry to threadjack... CBF to start a new topic!]

Edited by Yeedogga

The angle that BOV return comes in on will cause reversion, (air will flow out towards the airflow meter instead of into the turbo) It may need to be angled in more, see how it goes I guess.

  • 2 weeks later...
It went very well, there didn't seem to be any reversion but due to the wet road I couldn't really push it. Thanks again mate, will keep you posted in regards to tune.

Any results from the tune?

Photos of the intake pipe please :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...