Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL sounds like an excuse to me. Funny that some of the fastest circuit spec 32 GT-Rs in Japan run this size on them without massively modified guards. But what would they know? They aren't people blinded by the idea that fitment sacrifices your ability to thrash :D

Don't put fitment and sex spec together. They aren't anything alike. If you're having a nightmare with fitment, you're doing it wrong. Plain and simple. That's what happens when amateurs set up cars ;)

It's because they're all doing it wrong. They see this idiots with terrible mexican fitment rubbing and scraping and think that's what it's about.

Then they buy sh*tty offset wheels and say what was quoted above to justify it.

PERFECT fitment is sitting flush and having no rubbing, no need for super narrow rubber, or anything outside the alignment you want.

Hey Ben,

How many R32 GTR's have you setup for circuit racing and what size rim and offset do you recommend? Also what tyre size and profile do you recommend. And while you're at it camber, castor and toe settings.

Wheel fitment on R32 GT-R's is a touchy subject, people get very emotional and critical on what should be used.... :laugh:

I currently run Ray Ce28n 10.5"x18 +18 with 265 rubber. I run very little camber and guards are not rolled ( yet ). The rims do not scrub or scrape on anything.

This is stock springs and no aftermarket arms:

CETEST.jpg

This is with aftermarket arms and coilovers:

spokes.jpg

DTSNR32 - thanks for that information and pictures. rather informative .. what sort of driving do you do with your 32? done any track work with those wheels or really aggressive cournering? still no clearance issue's, what about on full lock?

I'm thinking of running 17x10+18 with 265 / 275 all round, but my old man thinks that it's too wide and i will have clearance issue's under hard cournering / bumps etc.

Cheers!

There are many guys with 32 GT-R's that I know of that have had problems with 18 x 9.5 wheels with offsets greater than +22 with untouched guards. Beats me how you'd get 18 x 10.5 +15 not to scrub without any guard modifications....

18x10.5 + 15 with 295/30/18

The body seem needed to be flattened in my front fender well and the guards rolled flat.

The only major downside to running this has been the cost of replacing tires. Having run this set up for two years I wouldn't do it again.

16678245.th.jpg

53027863.th.jpg

Edited by icydude
18x10.5 + 15 with 295/30/18

The body seem needed to be flattened in my front fender well and the guards rolled flat.

The only major downside to running this has been the cost of replacing tires. Having run this set up for two years I wouldn't do it again.

16678245.th.jpg

53027863.th.jpg

Nice car dude!!!

Wasn't aware the Enkei NT03's came in 10.5's, I've had a set in 18 x 10 and thought it was their biggest size.

Seems like the car above with the 18 x 10.5 CE28N's must have some modifications applied to the front guards....

Cheers for the response's guys, i have decided to let these wheels slide as they arnt the right offset as you all have said!

I want to keep the handeling aspets of my car, i love doing mountain runs / hillclimb / downhill runs etc .. it's why i bought the car actually.

I'm now thinking something more along the lines of 17x10 +18 so i can run a larger profile and hopefully fit a decent amount of tyre under there..

How does this sound? I've seen lots of pics of the 18x10+18 and it does sit flush, not sure how it will go with a decent tyre width under there though? Anyone had any experience, will gaurd work still be required for this size?

I'm thinking of getting some enkei pf01's or something like that, my mate suggested 17" but still 10" wide so you can fit more tyre on the rim. He suggests running like 265/275 ?

255/40R17 all round, or 255/35R18.

That's plenty and will still clear easy :P

Hey Ben,

How many R32 GTR's have you setup for circuit racing and what size rim and offset do you recommend? Also what tyre size and profile do you recommend. And while you're at it camber, castor and toe settings.

Wheel fitment on R32 GT-R's is a touchy subject, people get very emotional and critical on what should be used.... :/

I spend a lot of time looking at the fastest circuit GT-R's in Japan and would use similar set ups to them.

Each and every person likes different things. And the only way to work that out is trial and error with your alignments.

I personally like softer springs and upped sway bars, so to me, running -3 camber on a car is not an issue.

However a stiffer sprung car may use less if it doesn't roll onto the tyre as much.

My responses are based on people stating that those sizes are 'sex spec' or 'ricer fitment' when they have been used with great success overseas with no issues whatsoever.

Each to their own. But 10.5 +15 would be on my 32 GT-R if I had one, with 255/35R18s and around -3 camber all round. A little rear toe in and off course front toe out. I like to run as much castor as I can without clearance issues :) But that suits how I drive.

There are many guys with 32 GT-R's that I know of that have had problems with 18 x 9.5 wheels with offsets greater than +22 with untouched guards. Beats me how you'd get 18 x 10.5 +15 not to scrub without any guard modifications....

Obviously there is a need to the guard to be rolled 100% flat. They would never clear without that. But camber plays a big role as well as ride height.

I don't want to run alot of camber or anything like that, and im not too keen on the idea of getting the gaurds modified..
Obviously there is a need to the guard to be rolled 100% flat. They would never clear without that. But camber plays a big role as well as ride height.

So therefore the wheel size you're recommending does not suit Willis' needs....

He's better off sticking to a 18 x 9.5 +22 wheel, what your suggesting requires extensive modifications....

:/

So therefore the wheel size you're recommending does not suit Willis' needs....

He's better off sticking to a 18 x 9.5 +22 wheel, what your suggesting requires extensive modifications....

:laugh:

You call rolling a guard "extensive modification"??? Seriously?

It's rolling a guard!! Modified is pumping them out and changing their shape. Rolling is just necessary to be able to fit good track and good tyre size.

What is involved in getting the guard rolled 100% flat? Does this just mean folding that lip inside the guard flat? And how much would something like this cost?

Is there much difference between 17x10+18 and 17.9.5+18 with regards to clearance? These are the only 2 variations of size for the wheels that i'm after.

What is involved in getting the guard rolled 100% flat? Does this just mean folding that lip inside the guard flat? And how much would something like this cost?

Is there much difference between 17x10+18 and 17.9.5+18 with regards to clearance? These are the only 2 variations of size for the wheels that i'm after.

10 +18 will sit 6-7mm further out than the 9.5 +18.

Rolling the guards flat is a simple job than is done with a guard roller or hammer.

Usually around $40-80 per corner to do it. It's just rolling that lip up inside the guard, not changing the shape of them.

You call rolling a guard "extensive modification"??? Seriously?

It's rolling a guard!! Modified is pumping them out and changing their shape. Rolling is just necessary to be able to fit good track and good tyre size.

Not necessarily, but add in what you have suggested above therefore includes removing standard upper control arms/bushes, purchasing new aftermarket arms/bushes, installing new aftermarket arms/bushes, get another wheel alignment for new camber settings, and all of a sudden it's getting extensive (and also expensive).

Your missing the point, Willis has specified NO modifications, I'm not disagreeing what your saying won't work, it's just no good for this application....

From my understanding in Willis' posts he's not building a track car.

Make sense??

:blink:

Not necessarily, but add in what you have suggested above therefore includes removing standard upper control arms/bushes, purchasing new aftermarket arms/bushes, installing new aftermarket arms/bushes, get another wheel alignment for new camber settings, and all of a sudden it's getting extensive (and also expensive).

Your missing the point, Willis has specified NO modifications, I'm not disagreeing what your saying won't work, it's just no good for this application....

From my understanding in Willis' posts he's not building a track car.

Make sense??

:)

Yeah I follow you :cool: All good.

If the car is running at a height that has the tyres flush with the guards, how much camber can be fed into it with the factory adjustments? Any idea?

JAGR33 your right, it's no track car. It's a street car for now. Cheers again for all the info.. i think i'll go ahead with the 17x10+18 and just get the lips rolled flat if required. My car isnt very low so hopefully it wont require any immediate attention!

Yeah I follow you :) All good.

If the car is running at a height that has the tyres flush with the guards, how much camber can be fed into it with the factory adjustments? Any idea?

I have no idea mate as I own a R33 GT-R which uses different upper control arms. I'm pretty sure the standard arms can be used with offset bushes to allow for a little more camber.

Wouldn't want to run too much camber for a street car that does a few kms, tyres will not last as long....

Nice car dude!!!

Wasn't aware the Enkei NT03's came in 10.5's, I've had a set in 18 x 10 and thought it was their biggest size.

Seems like the car above with the 18 x 10.5 CE28N's must have some modifications applied to the front guards....

I have no guard modifications at all. They havent been rolled and it is like it came out of the factory. The car hasnt been around the track although i have given it a hard time around corners. The only time ive had issues is when i had 2 fat mates in the back and that only just scraped when i hit a pothole or big bump.

I will be looking at getting the guards rolled to drop the car another cm or so all round but that is all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...