Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My gearbox was crunching into second, doing a bit of research i found that an oil change helped ppl alot.

So i change my oil to castol epx8090, didnt really help.

When cold its hard to change into second, as in the gear stick is hard to push in. This is only when cold, with the old oil it was fine.

I guessing my box is worn? but is there any additive or even another oil change you can recommend?

I'm not recommending it, though I read people add the Nulon G70/G90 (not sure on the model) additive when changing their gearbox fluid. Since you don't have a GTR and no transfer case, you could add it through the shifter instead of taking the filler plug off the side of the transmission.

Reco, and yes if you want to do it properly you get it reconditioned. Once you crack open a box and start replacing parts you upset tolerances and other parts.

A recon price varies on how much you want fixed, if you only want 1 sychro fixed you get charged for one synchro, you get more replaced you get charged more. All depends on what is found when your reconditioner pulls the unit apart. Could be 1k could be more

  • 2 months later...

My R33 GTR also has the occasional crunch into 5th gear. Why fifth?

just the way it goes sometimes. it is odd though, the synchro mesh on 5th doesnt usually get anywhere near the thrashing that 2nd-3rd-4th does. although i used to have the same issue but it turned out my clutch fluid just needed to be bled, lol. not sure why it only affected 5th.

just change the box oil to redline shockproof, see if that helps

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the response. I have already changed the oil since I posted my issue. It hasn't crunched since I put it in. I used shockproof light. It had also crunched on one or two other gears, but it was just the odd one. I checked my brake fluid and the level is ok. Even if there was a bit of air in the system by the time you get to 5th, it's been pumped a few times. It should really be crunching when selecting first after being stationary out of gear. or cruising for a while before a gear change. I'm hoping this Redline (smurfs blood) has solved/covered-up my crunchy problem.

Just to share, I had a similar symptom on my R32 GTR (77,000km) that lead to a transmission replacement.

I had a crunch in 4th, and eventually developed a crunch in 3rd at high rpms. I switched the fluid (nothing special) in hope that a fresh fluid would help eliminate the crunch but it just made it more prominent.

Anyways, I have yet to find a permanent solution to the synchro issues on the R32 transmission, and it seems like no one has ever found one. I have been reading that even the R33 boxes have similar issues.

I know I am going to have to replace the box again at some point in time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...