Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a search for anything on this and couldn't find anything that was related to my issue.. Have an r32 gts4 4 door, just had the gearbox rebuilt and a one piece tailshaft put in the car. It has been fine for a few thousand k's. Today on a trip up to sydney I noticed a drivetrain whine coming from the car at around 100-110km's, it is not really a vibration. Seemed to get worse the faster it went. Also the gearstick felt warm. Through some trial and error, it appears it isn't related to what gear it's in, more the rotational speed.

I'm starting to suspect it's the tailshaft. Just wanted to know if anyones had a similar problem before? Should the tailshaft have been balanced when it was put on? Had the tailshaft made at one shop, and put in at the gbox place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338228-drivetrain-whine/
Share on other sites

any and all rotating parts u get made should have been balanced during manufacturing.. if not then someone didnt do their job. how warm exactly is the gear stick? it shouldnt be much more than room ambient temp really. mine used to get warm when i had bad bearings in the gearbox that generated excess heat.. so if its getting warm you may have something else causing excess friction. im pretty sure some whines are fairly acceptable.. after my gbox rebuild it whines a little bit in gear but i dont get the excess heat or anything anymore. no matter what you do you'll pretty much never rebuild it to the exact standard the factory did.

are you able to say with more certainty where the noise is coming from exactly? maybe take the boot off from around the bottom of the gearstick and then remove the rubber insulator, you should be able to see the tail shaft and the ground beneath it. go for a drive like that and that may give you a better idea where its coming from

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...