Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently after picking up the missus i noticed my oil light was on, naturally i freaked out pulled over and turned the car off. when i started it again the warning didnt go away it was still there but dim. no idea whats going on since then ive changed my oil everyday to no avail the lights still dim and from what i can tell i have good oil pressure and its filled correctly. any help will be appreciated

Cheers Jason

Shitty sensor. As I've read many times on here in either the Forced Induction Performance forum or General Maintenance, the stock sensor/gauge is shitty. If you KNOW you have pressure, and that your oil isn't low, invest in an aftermarket gauge and sensor.

I'm not going to attempt to diagnose your cars issue (if there is one at all), but for reference, I have recently hooked up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into my car (also a S2 R33), and its pretty clear now that the stock gauge doesn't really have a clue whats actually going on. Specifically, my stock gauge only seems accurate +-2BAR (ie. inaccurate), and is very, very unresponsive.

my stock gauge seems to be working fine how ever i do have an autometer gauge which i havent installed yet. its it hard or expensive to replace the sensor?

bit the bullet and finally connected my autometer prolite comp oil pressure gauge, on idle my car floats at 40-50 psi and goes all the way to 90 psi under load. i have a crazy feeling nothing bads happened but the senders def gone... may have something to do with flushing my radiator the other day... water went everywhere :happy: anywho im still not sure and im taking to to japspec tomoz to get it sorted cheers for the replys

What revs are you seeing 90psi at? shouldnt get that high until around 5-6k rpm, if you are seeing that sort of pressue at around 3000 you may have ring seal issue or the PCV breathers might be blocked, dont wanna scare you by saying that, but something to look out for.

cheers for the head up, i am seeing that PSI at 5-6k rpm so im assuming my oil pump is healthy. just got it back from japspec sensor got wet and short circuited but i also got my nismo twin plate put in... never experienced anything like it hahaha :)

Jason

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...