Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

am i being too anal about this whole situation, i mean the car can be registered here in oz as it is complianced?;)

Check with Vicroads - they are actually pretty cool about this kinda stuff. When I got my car it was first registered in QLD in 2000 but the compliance plate was dated 2002. So something dodgy went on somewhere. Somehow the car was originally registered under the japanese compliance number. It had never been registered before me with the correct compliance. But Vicroads did all the chasing up through QLD Transport and found the compliancer and everything was sweet. They were really helpfull.

am i being too anal about this whole situation, i mean the car can be registered here in oz as it is complianced?;)

Would you be anal if it was your car that was stolen and shipped overseas and was left paying it off?

I take it this is the car that beefy has advertised on these forums and is discussed in the other thread "where to get a vehicle inspection". I had the same experience with hypertech rubbishing all cars other than their customers ones for sale and would prefer Ben's opinion anyday. How long has it been complied and were the mods done here or in Japan? I think this car may have had a hit in the front from what I have heard. If its already complied then the tag isn't a huge issue is it?

I'd be careful.. its just not worth the risk! What happens if you want to sell it later on? I'm sure others will be cautious enough not to buy without it.

I'm not sure whether the numbers are significant at all, but cars can be stolen and sent out of japan quite easily for those with dodgy connections.. then complied and registered over here also with questionable connections.

Plus, until about 12-18 months ago when they tightened up the rules in VIC it was very easy to simply swap the compliance plate of a smashed GTR with a non-complianced GTR.. AND Vicroads has a reputation for being one of the dodgiest government departments in Australia.

Could have even been a statutary write off, just somehow, somebody managed to get it fixed up and re-registered. The blue plate cannot have simply just gone "missing" for any logical reason other than something dodgy. Clearly??

Cars can be stolen and sent out of japan regardless of whether they have the blue id tag or not as i believe.... as i mentioned b4, the i heard that this car is a 1998 model complied as a 1997 hence that might have to do with the missing plate.

However, mid to high 30's for a good condition 1998 GTR with over $5k worth of mods... it really is a bargain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...