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I am going to try and mirror image the right side one I have against the bits of the left.

started dropping the front end out of mine tonight. I'm going to pull the rear whilst I am at it and give the whole lot a good bath with thinners and a rag.

figured since I started cleaning the 'new' cross member that I may as well clean the rest up.

I'll do piccies later.

  • 2 weeks later...

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quick test of the new harness. this is a later series 2 GTR harness. it fixed a lot of niggles with the car that I had with the original GTS4 harness. broken and chopped plugs being one of them. all the controls on the AC work/ the vent actuators work (originals did not.) . dash lights work seat belt warning works and a host of other stuff that didnt before. I'll plug the rear harness in tomorrow night and bring the rest of the electronics online for a better test.

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another shot of the radio and AC in action. not the best/most stable shot but the light in the workshop at night is not the best.

Looking good chris, did you have to modify much to get the series 2 harness to work with everything else?

none. I am using the whole front harness. only issue I forsee will be with the rear harness. I compared it with the cut one I have and it pins out the same from what I can see.

I will be doing more on it tonight. basically I'm doing things that do not cost $$ at this point. testing and building harnesses.

it will be ongoing for a while. may not have much posting at times but I am still working on it. new parts cost money as we know. when I have spare money I work on it and buy things . otherwise I do other non cost things I can do myself and have the materials at teh shop for :)

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found out tonight there is a minor difference in the rear harnesses. the plug on the left is my original GTS4 harness and series 1 (1990) the one on the right is whats left of the rear GTR harness that I am using. there are two extra pins on it. they pin out the same apart from a difference in that plug. I will get a pinning tool onto it and swap the plugs out. there are two other differences as well one is a plug and the other is a seat harness. I have that harness and I will integrate it back into mine.

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bad light again :)

all the lights work on it. 4wd ECU comes up, HICAS won't. suspect that is the mismatched plug I have. I'll sort that one night next week.

electrical issues sorted. change two plug housings over and I have a hicas computer again.

spent some of this morning between customers bolting my A/C compressor and P'Steering pump on the RB25.

found a small trap in my case. the earlier PS pump has a 4 rib V belt the later ones have a 3 rib one. I do not see it being a major issue but I really wish I had kept the RB20 crank pulley now :(

about to start building a engine harness. I have two small ones here (these are for the starter/alternator side of the engine.) that are about to become one. I'll take piccies in a bit.

I'm still seriously impressed with the level and consistancy of the work your putting into this car.

The 'stock' radio looks the goods too.

Cheers

Justin

really? - watch this :D (see next post.)

radio has Ipod,USB,B'tooth on it so its fairly up to date. (I cheated as its still a stock late 90's radio with two extra modules hanging off it.)

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TOP:

RB20 harness - the left side of this thing is well and truly beyond any sort of use. see next shot for detail

BOTTOM:

RB25 harness - I still have to stretch this one out and note where every tie and clip brace is on it. then strip it and integrate the RB20 one into it.

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burnt RB20 harness. every thing on the 8 pin and 2 pin grey and black plugs are pretty much fused together. the 4AWG cable for the starter is a total write off. most of that went into the bin except for what I needed to measure and build from scratch again..

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another shot. there is no way any of this would have lasted 5 minutes when the RB25 went back in.

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pin out of the main 8 pin plug . note the mess.

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measuring and locating the branches of the RB20 harness. this will make building another one a lot easier. this is what needs to carry over into the RB25 one. I have a few things to remove from it as well. that harness will be next to strip once I build this one from scratch again. it is seriously too far gone to reuse reliably.

293668_2353124550787_1330376598_32833027_4297482_n.jpg

pin out and length diagram of the partial RB20 starter/alternator harness. all of this needs to carry over to the RB25 so I gain reverse lights and N safety switches

this is for my reference and I realized AFTER I took that photo that I left a harness OUT of it. there is a 2 pin harness that comes off the PS rack that one side is not on there at the 36" mark that is 6" long with a 2pin yazaki plug . I have since wrote it on there

this sheet tells me where/what things are on this harness.

the RB25 harness will have a LOT more detail as there is a LOT more hanging off it.

ECU harness will be next once I do this one. to be honest that one is NOT going to be fun as it is quite a bit different from the RB20 one.

for those that have done a RB25 swap into the 32 chassis - where is the water temp sensor for the heater on a RB25?

For the RB20 its on the firewall. so that is where it goes back into the harness when I build it. I have a extra plug on the harness that I'm not quite sure what it is. seems to control or measure water under the intake.

If I can find a DIN radio that wil run a external nissan cd stacker I wil use them. speaking to clarion the only ones made with this were in the USDM and JDM markets. none here.

have prices on those hinges as well.

true but hte FM band is wrong and given i do a lot a out of city driving the FM has to work. I did find one in the US that I could mod but it will require amplifiers as it is a bose unit.

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