Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently took a trip down to my local tyeland to get my suspension fixed up when i hit a gutter, well i found out that my gearbox has a leak, the front seal is worn or something, ive left it for over a month and im hoping to have it fixed within 3 weeks or so, i hadnt been driving it much until now, but now i have found that my car starts to slip, after i had drove down to cronulla i was on the way back. cruising down the highway in 4th gear sped up a bit and after the revs went over about 4-5000 revs the car just started revving out really quikwith no speed pickup and could feel it slipping, now im not sure why its doing this, is it because the gearbox is getting dry or is it my clutch or something, also how can i get more oil in my box to keep her safe till i can afford the 500 to pull it out and have it fixed?? thanks for the help in advance guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33969-gearbox-prob-slipping-pls-help/
Share on other sites

How much oil loss are we talkin. If it is on the ground after you park for an hour or so then it may be leaking enough oil onto the clutch plate to be making it slip. if the clutch is oil soaked then it would also be shuddering under takeoff. There is a 19mm oil inspection plug you can remove to check the oil level. it is in the same place as most rear wheel drive gearboxes. Most mechanics should show you. Oil should be close to overflowing out of hole. Hole is big enough to fit finger in to check existing level of oil. That way you can estimate oil consumption. (Only to be done when vehicle is cold of course.) Fill oil through this hole. Looks like the bill may go over five hunge $ if u need a new clutch 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...