Chewin Through Pads Like Its Goin Outta Style.

[scandyflick]

so, i have a small, somewhat expensive problem with my 200sx.

at the track (mallala) and during hills runs, it goes through pads like theyre not even there.

ive used bendix ultimate, bendix srt's, qfm hpx, qfm a1rm, acre street fighter pads, and a slew of cheaper pads for a-b work.

regardless of bedding procedure, how well theyre bled, and of machining, i experience the same problem everytime.

all of them have been torn to shit in pretty short order. which is pretty baffling, especially in regards to the a1rm's, theyre a 750 degree (fahrenheit) rated pad, and while im hard on my brakes, i doubt my little 1400kg 170rwkw 200 (running 1:26 average around mallala) is bringing them up to a point where they just turn into molten nothingness after a couple hard stops.

i know people that head to mallala regularly with a1rm pads, pulling faster times, in similarly weighted cars, with more power and the same 280mm 4 pot brakes, and their pads last 3-4 track days. mine dont even last one. not a single full day at the track.

im using rda slotted rotors from this group buy.

one of the mallala regulars that came out to the track day yesterday seems to think it might be something in the rotor casting making it more abrasive than usual, which sounds like a bit of a stretch, but would explain the extreme wear to the pads, but absolute minimal wear to the rotors themselves.

any other theories?

[blind_elk]

If the pushrod at the master isn't adjusted correctly, it might not allow the pistons to back off correctly, and thus hold the pad against the rotor.

I'm guessing that the pistons are easy enough to push back while you are changing pads.

[DVS JEZ]

are you sure your 200sx weighs 1400kg? sounds too heavy.

my s13 was 1165kg.

[MrStabby]

Assuming the 200 comes with brake ducting, is it all there?

Out of the pads you list that i know about, most aren't suitable and only the AIRMs are possibilities for being much use at the track and even then they are a compromise street/track pad. Try a proper track pad - QFM Comp9s, Ferodo DS3000s, EBC yellow etc.

[GTScotT]

I had similar issues with some of the pads you have mentioned.

Best pads I have ever used were ferodo formula (DS2000) used these on a heavy street application and they outlasted my clutch (there is more to this story than my seem).

I would want to give the new range a go if possible.

GL

[scandyflick]

If the pushrod at the master isn't adjusted correctly, it might not allow the pistons to back off correctly, and thus hold the pad against the rotor.

I'm guessing that the pistons are easy enough to push back while you are changing pads.

thats what im thinking. somethings up with the master cylinder. might get it rebuilt. its probably due for an overhaul anyways.

and yeah... theyre not difficult to push back in.

are you sure your 200sx weighs 1400kg? sounds too heavy.

my s13 was 1165kg.

with my fat ass in it, its easily pushing 1400.

not really the sort of input i was looking for though eh...

Assuming the 200 comes with brake ducting, is it all there?

Out of the pads you list that i know about, most aren't suitable and only the AIRMs are possibilities for being much use at the track and even then they are a compromise street/track pad. Try a proper track pad - QFM Comp9s, Ferodo DS3000s, EBC yellow etc.

had some rudimentary brake ducting for a while. didnt make any difference. at all. itd last 15 - 20 laps before going spongy with the ducting, itd last 15-20 laps before going spongy without the ducting. and pads would still get torn to shit.

the only pads ive use properly on the track are the a1rm's, everything else has been street (and has worn out fast regardless), and while im aware theyre just a cross over pad, i know a lot of people that use nothing but a1rm's on track, with no dramas. most sets lasting at least 3, but often 4 track days.

[jenkies]

dave, ive got the same rotors but i went for the ebc red stuff and found them to be a good pad, went through 2 track days and about 4000 kms with about 20-25% left.... maybe its worth giving them a shot if you dont give your master cylinder an overhauled first.. or take a jump and get the yellows.. im going to give them a shot next till my brakes crap out completely

[gslrallysport]

The fact that you're chewing out high temp pads just on the street definitely suggest something other than pads. If that wasn't the case I'd say try a set of Project Mu H16-03, they're alot more expensive to begin with, but their wear is phenomenal. Certain Porsche cup drivers go the whole season on the one set of pads...

But from what you've said I think it would be a pretty expensive gamble to go...

[mid life crisis]

my bet its something like stuck slides in the calipers

[scandyflick]

The fact that you're chewing out high temp pads just on the street definitely suggest something other than pads. If that wasn't the case I'd say try a set of Project Mu H16-03, they're alot more expensive to begin with, but their wear is phenomenal. Certain Porsche cup drivers go the whole season on the one set of pads...

But from what you've said I think it would be a pretty expensive gamble to go...

lol. yeah, ill hold off on that sorta outlay until i know for certain what the issue is. sounds like theyll definitely be the go when i get it sorted though.

my bet its something like stuck slides in the calipers

explains the rears (although, i rebuilt those not long ago), doesnt explain the fronts.

*shrug*

probably the master cylinder. no biggy.

Edited October 11, 2010 by scandyflick