Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i did press the browse, but it doesent work, i select the picture etc, press upload and it says uploading, but when its done, it says no upload file selcted.... so i dont know whats going on.

dont know what the turbos are, all i have is model numbers and the pictures of the greddy plates that are on there.

i think if you go greddy website you can find the exact specifications on there.

numbers and details on the intake housings are as follow:

Type: T618Z

Serial No: 020917027

Part no:-Blank-

MFD. No: 49179-05000

plus it says Trust CO.,LTD. Japan

and the usual crap performance by Trust -Greddy

the twin dumps connected to them are split dumps, stainless steel by xforce.

i feel so stupid, i didnt read the underneath of the upload button max size of picture is 2MB!!!

they were originally 10MB each, so had to downscale them.

soo stupid.

but here are the pics:

post-74293-1287901447_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901469_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901485_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901504_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901524_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901538_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901554_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901568_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901585_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901610_thumb.jpg

post-74293-1287901633_thumb.jpg

guess the part number for the turbo is #11500216

thats the most info i could find about them, supposed to be a single 450hp+ turbo, so x2 should do some decent numbers

Edited by Bronx
I have 12k in my hand you cant see but you will have to trust me.

Send me the engne

if you send me $$$ to come up there first, ill come and deliver it then give me 12k when i give you engine :D

Dude wtf?

Post is now 2 weeks old and still no solid details or even a pic of the actual engine.

Is the engine being built in a cave in Afghanistan or something so you cannot even go and get a current pic of your own engine? You cannot even say with any certainty what is actually inside your own engine?

GL with the sale of 'the engine', it would probably suit the rebuild of wonder womans invisible jet!

no, parts are in a different place than the engine is, the engine is at the machine shop and the parts are at the mechanic, im not pushing the sale of the engine to the extent of bugging people, im just posting as i go.

pics will come and follow as i get them. im not asking send me your cash and ill give you this when i fancy or its finished building. when it is fully completed, i will be happy to have anyone who wants come to inspect it or laugh at it.

im selling this for my mate, its his fault that its all taking its sweet ass time, hes just been bugging me, and hes too fkn lazy to do it himself.

if you highly doubt any of the pictures supplied, i can send you a RAW image which will have all the details you need to show you that the pictures are not tampered with, photoshopped or DL from the web anywhere.

Enough of this...

Two things, for the thread starter...

1. If you want to sell, look at others threads and see what detail they give... A good detailed for sale thread and of course a good price will sell anything...

2. Read the rules, mainly tell your "mate" to sell his own engine/parts...

Below are the simple rules for the use of the classifieds section.

Any users that choose to ignore the rules as below will either have their posts or threads removed/edited, or may receive a warning

6. No posting on behalf of others! - If your mates want to advertise their parts here on SAU, tell them to register - If you dont own it, dont post it for sale.

Thread Closed

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...