Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu Repairer Wanted

SoFreshSoClean

By SoFreshSoClean,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
Posted

I was wondering if anyone knows of any ECU repairers in Perth? Specifically for R33 RB25DET Power FC.

I am told my VCT isnt working and this has been traced back to the ECU not switching it on.

Anyone have any similiar experiences or advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340113-ecu-repairer-wanted/
Share on other sites
GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Alternately you can use this to switch the VCT if you can't get the PowerFC repaired.

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/RPM/Ti...dow_Switch.aspx

Personally I'd double check the VCT solenoid by wiring directly to it, to mkae sure that the ECU is actually the issue.

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Contact Sean automotive service solutions.

92049888

they fixed one of my powerfc's for me, but has to be sent over east..

Thanks for that. If you dont mind telling me, what was fixed and how much did it cost?

Alternately you can use this to switch the VCT if you can't get the PowerFC repaired.

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/RPM/Ti...dow_Switch.aspx

Personally I'd double check the VCT solenoid by wiring directly to it, to mkae sure that the ECU is actually the issue.

Yeah my mechanic tried 'hardwiring' the solenoid and it switched on straight away. The wiring was fine, but the actual ecu pinout is not turning on the ecu.

That looks pretty awesome! Do you know anybody who has used it on an RB25DET? VCT operates from 1800-4700rpm so I'm told so it would just switch on then, and switch off at 4700 right?

That may end up being the cheaper option, getting my ecu repaired apparently can cost up to $400.

Edited by SoFreshSoClean
GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
Thanks for that. If you dont mind telling me, what was fixed and how much did it cost?

Yeah my mechanic tried 'hardwiring' the solenoid and it switched on straight away. The wiring was fine, but the actual ecu pinout is not turning on the ecu.

That looks pretty awesome! Do you know anybody who has used it on an RB25DET? VCT operates from 1800-4700rpm so I'm told so it would just switch on then, and switch off at 4700 right?

That may end up being the cheaper option, getting my ecu repaired apparently can cost up to $400.

Yeah, I have it in my car :down:

We setup the switch whilst it's on the dyno, so you can optimise the on/off rpm settings, as it is dependant on alot of factors like cams, headwork etc.

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah, I have it in my car :down:

We setup the switch whilst it's on the dyno, so you can optimise the on/off rpm settings, as it is dependant on alot of factors like cams, headwork etc.

Yeah I have standard cams/head, just bolt ons and a GT-RS turbo.

My last question is, do you have to change the on-off points for deceleration? Or is it exactly the same?

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
Yeah I have standard cams/head, just bolt ons and a GT-RS turbo.

My last question is, do you have to change the on-off points for deceleration? Or is it exactly the same?

No worries, the default setpoint would be fine as a starting point. The on-off points are the same for acceleration as deceleration.

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
No worries, the default setpoint would be fine as a starting point. The on-off points are the same for acceleration as deceleration.

Sweet, thanks for your help mate! :)

Edit: Now I'm not so sure.. I went out and opened the bonnet, as soon as I touch the throttle I can hear a decently loud 'tick'. Isnt that the VCT switching on and off?

Furthermore, shouldnt the car drive like ass if it wasnt working? :(

Edited by SoFreshSoClean
Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
Sweet, thanks for your help mate! :)

Edit: Now I'm not so sure.. I went out and opened the bonnet, as soon as I touch the throttle I can hear a decently loud 'tick'. Isnt that the VCT switching on and off?

Furthermore, shouldnt the car drive like ass if it wasnt working? :(

having driven and work on an r33 with no vct and similar turbo (hks gt2835 pros), i can tell you if the VCT isn't kicking in the car will have no pull or power under 5000rpm. as paul mention very easy to pick on the dyno

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
Edit: Now I'm not so sure.. I went out and opened the bonnet, as soon as I touch the throttle I can hear a decently loud 'tick'. Isnt that the VCT switching on and off?

yep, it activates the moment you touch the throttle from idle. with a power fc anyway, not sure bout the standard computers

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
  • Author
Posted
having driven and work on an r33 with no vct and similar turbo (hks gt2835 pros), i can tell you if the VCT isn't kicking in the car will have no pull or power under 5000rpm. as paul mention very easy to pick on the dyno

This is my dyno graph, my tuner remarked that it seems to be responding a bit like an RB26, the car doesnt have the 'punch' that you'd expect a tuned RB25 to have. I swear it has less power down low than my old standard ECU car with a catback exhaust.

As you can see the turbo is making full boost by well over 3000rpm which is a bit laggier than I expected..

post-24834-1286887201_thumb.jpg

Any ideas? :blush:

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
This is my dyno graph, my tuner remarked that it seems to be responding a bit like an RB26, the car doesnt have the 'punch' that you'd expect a tuned RB25 to have. I swear it has less power down low than my old standard ECU car with a catback exhaust.

As you can see the turbo is making full boost by well over 3000rpm which is a bit laggier than I expected..

post-24834-1286887201_thumb.jpg

Any ideas? :banana:

that looks normal for a gt-rs, most people make between 300-350rwhp @ 16psi. however it does look laggy. i was making full boost by 3300rpm with my hks gt2835 pros which is a larger turbo.

what size is your exhaust?

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
Greddy Profec Bspec 2

Have tried disconnecting it, didnt make any difference.

looks like it could use a bit more gain. theres a guide on here for tuning profecs if you wanna try make full boost earlier

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The dyno graph doesn't look bad to me, I'd have expected some big flatspots if the VCT wasn't working. I'd do back to back run with the VCT plug connected and disconnected.

Maybe I am being lied to which is upsetting considering the size of the workshop :D

that looks normal for a gt-rs, most people make between 300-350rwhp @ 16psi. however it does look laggy. i was making full boost by 3300rpm with my hks gt2835 pros which is a larger turbo.

what size is your exhaust?

Its a 3-inch turbo back.. Could a blocked cat affect this?

looks like it could use a bit more gain. theres a guide on here for tuning profecs if you wanna try make full boost earlier

I was told gain is pumped right up, but then again I was told VCT isn't working.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
Maybe I am being lied to which is upsetting considering the size of the workshop :D

Its a 3-inch turbo back.. Could a blocked cat affect this?

I was told gain is pumped right up, but then again I was told VCT isn't working.

I would say you VCT is working.

We replace a broken VCT and with the broken one when you open the throttle on idle you can't hear anything but with a working one there is a very noticeable click.

The car was an r33 with a hks 2835 pros with no VCT it was a dog low down, once it hit 4000-5000rpm it just pick up aheap of power and was very untuneable due to the huge change in such a small rev range.

so my guess is your VCT is working, best way is to just unplug it take it for a drive, see how it drives, plug it back in and see if it is any different.

And yes a block cat wouldn't help the flow out of the exhaust so could possible be that, BUT i really thinking there is nothing wrong for the amount of boost you are running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...