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Hey Kurt, don't you have a spare r31 auto box??? Your best bet would be to send the spare auto box away to get built up (more clutchs, bigger bands, shift kit etc) to handle the extra power... That way it will swap straight in without any buggering around... to put a 33gts-t auto in would be alot of stuffing around.. and it won't last as long as a properly build box anyway.

Cheers

Justin

I do have a spare one. Have no idea on what condition its in, not that that matters if i build it. Whats the cost in getting one rebuilt tough? The reason for wanting a 33 auto is because there dirt cheap, and should handle what i've got for the time being. Money is gonna be a little tight for a bit, and from what i know its fairly easy to put in the 33 auto. In the long run i'll get an auto rebuilt, but for the time being i want something that can handle the power i've got. Also have heard that the 33 box launches and changes gears alot better then i 31 box. Which i can understand when its 10 years newer.

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I do have a spare one. Have no idea on what condition its in, not that that matters if i build it. Whats the cost in getting one rebuilt tough? The reason for wanting a 33 auto is because there dirt cheap, and should handle what i've got for the time being. Money is gonna be a little tight for a bit, and from what i know its fairly easy to put in the 33 auto. In the long run i'll get an auto rebuilt, but for the time being i want something that can handle the power i've got. Also have heard that the 33 box launches and changes gears alot better then i 31 box. Which i can understand when its 10 years newer.

My VL turbo was around 1100 to get built up fairly well... but that was 8 years ago. Unless the 33 box slides right in, then the cost for the conversion might be 300-800 bucks depending on wiring... I doubt that the box will handle the torque though- dunno, ask marty.

Definately use redline auto trans oil whatever you do.

Turn the boost down, save some money and build a box... The cost of a box will be about the cost of a good clutch!

Cheers

Justin

My VL turbo was around 1100 to get built up fairly well... but that was 8 years ago. Unless the 33 box slides right in, then the cost for the conversion might be 300-800 bucks depending on wiring... I doubt that the box will handle the torque though- dunno, ask marty.

Definately use redline auto trans oil whatever you do.

Turn the boost down, save some money and build a box... The cost of a box will be about the cost of a good clutch!

Cheers

Justin

I'll talk to Martin and see what he thinks would be best. Even if i can get an R33 Auto in there for the time being and then get that built later down the track, surely a built 33 box will be better then a bulit 31 box.

Dunno. We shall see.

Cheers

  • 4 months later...

just found you on there and the links in your sig on that site dont work either and i went back through your posts to may 9th and it dosnt show any posts from you in that thread alf!

Has it been deleted or in a section you need to be a special member to access?

Not much has changed really. I did put S13 coilovers in the rear and we also found an exhuast blockage that had been there from day one. So throttle responce is a bit sharper and she spools up a bit sooner. Also fuel economy increased a fair bit too. It really needs a new transmission and a retune though. It's current tune is holding it back so much.

Should have it in the body shop to get the entire front end tidied up depending on how tax time goes. And then later this year i'll have martin putting my new gearbox in it followed by a tune. Other then a few mild hiccups we seem to have ironed out all the creases and its running really reliably.

Alrighty, thought it was about time i put up some stuff about my car. I will update this post as time goes on. And i will add pictures as soon as i get around to trying.

Firstly my car is a Blue 1986 GXE Sedan. I got the car off a family friend as a car to loan when i first arrived in Tas so i had something to get around in and to/from uni. It didn't take long for me to get attached to the car and after some browsing through these forums i soon decided i had to make it mine. I asked if i could buy the car and sure enough it was mine in no time.

Here it is:

08022011051.jpg

In the early days the beast was a bit tired and and the first thing i did when i started driving it was running in on BP Ultimate (now running on Vortex 98). This made a noticable difference. Only a few other things were replaced/installed over the next few months including things like a Bosch AFM and a few other minor things i can't think of.

Early last year, around may, my car was stolen by two 16yo's and a 13yo where they took it for about a 15km thrash, which ended when they blew the exhaust off! At the time they stole the car it was still running like a pig and i hadn't really spent any money on it. The little pricks were caught later on that day in a Subaru Liberty after stealing about 4 cars. (The 16yo driving was pursued by police in december after another string of car thefts and was run over by the police, which resulted in 2 broken legs. I was quite happy to hear that.)

I took the car around to the mechanic who i had been talking to for quiet some time and we had a full custom exhaust (Stock extractors) an oil cooler for the auto transmision and a few other minor things that i can't recall.

After some TLC the car ran better then she had before but as always these things never really last and soon i had a failing fuel pump so that was replaced with a Bosch 040. The next thing to cause trouble was the crank angle sensor which was replaced and made the car run like never before.

Now, onto the more serious stuff, i had finally got some money together to start some performance work on my car. I first purchased a new motor off a bloke who had it partially rebuilt with forged parts and had the valves polished. It also has a 292degree cam in the sucker. Along with the engine i purchased a Garret GT3082 with the housing brought out a bit. I dropped the car in to get the engine installed along with the sts turbo setup. Now for my turbo setup we have it mounted where the muffler normally would be with a straight tail pipe coming out of the turbo, it's got an external Sard wastegate and a lot of pipework up to the inlet. At the moment i don't have an intercooler yet but it seams to be doing fine, i can take it out and thrash it, hop out while she's still running and hold onto the intake directly above the engine with out burning my hands off.

Along with the engine i got bigger injectors, Nistune, a stall convertor and i've drawn a mental blank. Will update this when i get home.

The results,

Stock: 66rwkw and 193Nm Torque.

Modifided: 163rwkw, 434Nm Torque on about .8Bar

At this point i'll mention that we were making 175rwkw on the dyno with a few more pounds of boost to go, but the auto was slipping so we tuned it back to 165rwkw for the time being so the box doesn't shit it self too soon.

When i get home i will update this and include install pics and dyno results along with a more detailed list of mods to date.

Home now:

04012011025.jpg



04012011026.jpg



04012011023.jpg



04012011022.jpg

Will get back to ya's soon.

Cheers

Kurt

Here's a link to the thread in SAU: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/340173-sts-turbo-setup/

And here's some dyno results, before and after. Just keep in mind the auto is rooted!


Scan_Pic0001.jpg


Scan_Pic0002.jpg


Got another picture here for ya's.

Just a picture of the setup sitting in the boot.

Wasn't completely put together though but gives you an idea.

19102010023.jpg

Been a bit slack, i don't think much has changed on the car.

Bought some rims yesterday, 17X7, unsure on the offset. Here they are:

IMG_0318.jpg

Unsure if i'm going to put them on or not. Will see what they look like, if they stand out to much i might not bother. Bought them cheap (The four rims with tyres in the pic plus 4 hald decent tyres for $150).

If i decide i don't want them my brother in law wants them for his s13 so we shall wait and see.

Haven't got a picture of the boot spoiler yet, but will do this arvo hopefully. It has a nice crack along it but i'll get that fixed eventually.

Now for those of you who don't already know, early march i had some scum smash my windscreen and scratch the bonnet. Was due for a new windscreen any way, so i'm not really out of pocket. Plus when they get charged (we know who they are) my insurance will refund my my excess. Here's a picture for ya's:

Windscreen-1.jpg

Any who, within the month she'll be fixed (already replaced the windscreen). I'm getting some more work done at the same time. The whole bonnet will be fixed (a few stone chips) and resprayed along with the two gaurds fixed up, resprayed and the inner lips rolled a little for when i get rota rims. Also the lip along the top of the bumper done along with my brand new standard front bumper installed and resprayed. Will also be getting the rest of the car cut and polished to make matching the paint easier and to make her look a bit nicer. So pretty much everything infront of the doors will look as new. Unfortunatly thats all i could afford at the moment. I will get before and after pictures for ya's of course.

Need some input though. Should i have the little silver badge (the one that says ultra) on the front of the bonnet removed and smoothed over or keep it? I think i want to keep it. unsure. Also, do i need the plastic on the inside of the gaurds? If not i'll rip them out when i get home cause i'm healthy of them rubbing (front suspension need replacing) plus they'll need to be cut when they roll the gaurds i assume. Ah and one last thing, is there any need got the sound deadning under the bonnet? Or should i turf that too.

Cheer fulla's.

Will get some pics of the boot for ya's soon.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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