Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alrighty, here's the other picture:

31012011043.jpg

And i've been listening a bit more, it has a very pronounced flutter, i will be installing a recirc bov at somepoint to hopefully make it quieter. I am trying to be as sleeper as possible.

And i found out what the boot spoiler is. It is off a VL Nitron. See:

vlnitron_rearright.jpg

And here:

w4hvs.jpg

I will try to get a picture of mine up soon. I had a look yesterday and it looks like it was slightly modified to accomodate the boot lock location.

All those posts are copied directly out of the other thread. so if some of it makes no sense it's cause i haven't been over it.

Will keep ya's updated if i remember,

Cheers

Kurt

Edited by Johny Bravo
  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

At the moment because the rear sits high (i had clearance issues) with the s13 coilovers and because the front suspension is f**ked and sitting lower then before you can see it from behind. When the car was level you could stand 3 or 4 car lengths behind and not see it. I'll take a picture when i get the suspension fixed.

I got pulled over the other day and the cop had a look over the car and asked me "whats that pipe coming out of the muffler" and i replied "i wouldn't have a clue sorry" and that was the end of it. He must have been refering to the oil feed. I have a different elbow join then pictured above now.

Is it hiding something? i've left mine there to make it look kinda standard. Eventually i'll put a custom water/air intercooler where the stock air box and have the intake from the turbo go into it from below where you can't see it then have the stock snorkel dummy connected to the black painted intercooler to look stock.

the front of the airbox was cut out to put the intake from the 31 lid on there then the snorkel was cut down to fit and make it look a little more factory, its to get more air into the airbox to feed the 3540 i have on there.

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE! Copied from R31 Skyline Club Forum:

So just a little update. Polished up my Chrome Ti grille that arived the other day. Cost me $30 plus postage so i'm quite happy. Not on the car yet but i'll do that tomorro.

Test patch:

10062011093.jpg

And after:

10062011095.jpg

Should look ok on the car. And some bad news, my extractors developed 2 rather large cracks, which have now been welded up. So for now i'll be not driving it much and taking it easy when i do.

The exhaust system gets really hot due to the turbo acting like a large restriction and i could get some steam pipe extractors made up but then something else is gonna give and by the time we make the rest of the exhaust stainless or something to handle the heat the cost just isn't going to be worth it.

So, its been a good learning experience and hasn't cost me much as most of the work that was new i wasn't charged for so we've decided to go with a conventional setup. I'm going to get a custom merge collector, steam pipe high mount manifold made up and then all the other needed bits to go with it. Also while i'm at it i've decided i'm going to put a rb25 manual in the bitch. Alot of you are probably going to pleased with this and will probably say i told you so, but this STS setup just isn't practical for the power i am chasing.

I think i covered everything. Not sure, will post up pictures of the car tomorro.

  • 1 month later...

Nice project. been very interested in sts turbos for a long time. not a very sleeper engine bay,not very smart at all with the pod(dirt,moisture,water and all sorts of shit all up in your pod) and im guessing nothing was purchased from sts turbos. i see you will be changing the engine bay when you get an intercooler but you really should have fed the pipe up through the airbox originally. pod should have an sts intake pipe and sts pod cover or just feed pod into boot. interested to see a video of how much your car sounds like a jet turbine on spoolup and spooldown.

Like this

Those spoilers are not of Vl nitron's or aero's etc....., they are made for the R31, and are reasonably rare, i have one on my car

and i also had a vl aero one before, and they are complety different in profile, be ALOT of work to get it on a R31

They are cool!

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Ah cheers for the info. Also, copied this across from R31SC as always:

For those of you who don't already know, have my car and my spare 31 broken into the weekend before last. They didn't get is started, although they did try to push start an automatic even though the immobiliser and my other security measures we're still active. After failing to get it started they stole my Omori boost gauge, racetech water temp gauge, Just jap din 3 gauge holder and my head unit. The retarded scum also tried to get into the boot (boot doesn't pop) but being to simple minded they tried to pull the entire back seat forward instead of pulling the tabs that fold the seats and damaged the back seat a tad. Also left the window open so my drivers seat and carpet got soaked by the rain. And as i suspected, they also damaged something pushing the car out of my drive way, when i started the car it left i nice puddle of oil, hopefully nothing major but i recon they have most likely damaged the exhaust and intake piping.

Any who, speaking to my mechanic, who is doing me up a qoute for insurance, he thinks that they will likely write the car off. Not that i mind at all, i'll but the car back and reshell my engine/turbo along with changing a thing or two. The plan is to buy one of the following: A mint series 2 or 3 Ti, a coupe, a 4 door R34 or a coupe. Did i mention coupe? Really want to get a coupe. But its all about money. We shall see what happens. I think that is all for now.

Ah cheers for the info. Also, copied this across from R31SC as always:

For those of you who don't already know, have my car and my spare 31 broken into the weekend before last. They didn't get is started, although they did try to push start an automatic even though the immobiliser and my other security measures we're still active. After failing to get it started they stole my Omori boost gauge, racetech water temp gauge, Just jap din 3 gauge holder and my head unit. The retarded scum also tried to get into the boot (boot doesn't pop) but being to simple minded they tried to pull the entire back seat forward instead of pulling the tabs that fold the seats and damaged the back seat a tad. Also left the window open so my drivers seat and carpet got soaked by the rain. And as i suspected, they also damaged something pushing the car out of my drive way, when i started the car it left i nice puddle of oil, hopefully nothing major but i recon they have most likely damaged the exhaust and intake piping.

Any who, speaking to my mechanic, who is doing me up a qoute for insurance, he thinks that they will likely write the car off. Not that i mind at all, i'll but the car back and reshell my engine/turbo along with changing a thing or two. The plan is to buy one of the following: A mint series 2 or 3 Ti, a coupe, a 4 door R34 or a coupe. Did i mention coupe? Really want to get a coupe. But its all about money. We shall see what happens. I think that is all for now.

Series 3 TI would be the way. coupe wouldn't be very sleeper.

Are you allowed older engines in newer cars in tas ? Cause if not then the 34s would be out of the question...legally lol.

Good luck.

Sell you an r33 coupe with no engine for a pretty penny :)

Yup, was a good learning curve but at the end of the day it's going to be better when slapped on the engine. There is just to much back pressure for the exhaust system to handle, i could go to a full stainless system but it would start getting to costly. Will also be more responsive on a normal manifold. Maybe a smaller turbo would be better but for the power figure's im chasing this setup just isn't gonna make it.

Yup, was a good learning curve but at the end of the day it's going to be better when slapped on the engine. There is just to much back pressure for the exhaust system to handle, i could go to a full stainless system but it would start getting to costly. Will also be more responsive on a normal manifold. Maybe a smaller turbo would be better but for the power figure's im chasing this setup just isn't gonna make it.

Oh were you still using factory exhaust?

Sounds a bit gay and no longer sleeper :( just another rb30et ib a 31.

Good luck anyway!

haha. it had a new 2.5"mandrel bend exhaust, the extractors on it cracked from the heat/pressure. Would need to make custom steampipe extractors for the power i'm chassing. So i'll just do it the conventional way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...