Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys need your help, Bare with me im new at this. I bought an R33 GTST about a week ago. Since then ive bought a Drifft Iridium boost gauge to install all went well with the electrical wiring im handy with that stuff. Now over to the engine bay. My car already had a boost gauge fitted to it by the previous owner but he removed it. I thought id just attatch the metter to where it used to be from the old owner to get it to run.. An sucssess it lite up. I was happy with it. Now here is where the problem lies. Just 2 things.

1. On my boost gauge it reads Negative 16 (-16) on idle is that normal??

2. I took it out for a test run and felt the car splutter and sound like it wants to stall. Now i know i have a coilpack problem im waiting for a new 1 to arrive. Prior to the new gauge id get a bit of a miss at 4500rpm . Though Since i installed the new gauge and have it hooked up the problem feels more severe.

as soon as i take the vacume hose off the aftermarket gauge it returns to normal. Have i hooked up the meter incorectly?? ive never done this bfor and thought id give it a shot since i already had the t piece and followed the disconected hose. PLZ help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340243-boost-gauge-reading-wrong/
Share on other sites

**bump**

From what you describe, it sounds to me like a vac leak. It makes Nissans want to stall when returning to idle. Check your vac connections and check that the gauge is sealed properly.

Hope that helps :banana:

kool ill give it a shot was hoping that i didnt conect it wrong lol well i didnt conect it at all lol last owner did. Just to be clear on it the set up on my RB is like this... I have a vacume hose coming out of the plenium which is then hooked up to the T Piece. From the bottom of the T piece i have another hose running to the BOV then from the otherside of the T piece i have a hose running to my Boost gauge

kool on another note what should the boost be reading on idle?? -7 like the stock gauge? and what size hosses should i run? i may have to replace t piece as the hosses that link up to it from the previouse owner are quite large compared to the little gold fitting i got for my boost gauge

OK so i bought a new t piece and new vacume lines and tried it again and its still doing it also my new coilpack came in 2day so ill fit that on saturday and see if anything changes... I hope it fixes the problem... ill let ya know by sat arvo.. also if anyone knows any other reasons this is happning plz fill me in.. im scared ill damage something expensive

My gauge reads -20, my greedy elec boost thingie reads -99 (about -10 psi) but both read 16 psi on full boost.

I think the - doesnt really matter but I could and have been wrong....

so if any of the piping from the intercooller can make the engine splutter ayy?? well when i just disconect the hose leading to my boost gauge everything runs normal.. by the way my gauge is digital not mechanical.. just thought mayb that info would make a difference

My gauge reads -20, my greedy elec boost thingie reads -99 (about -10 psi) but both read 16 psi on full boost.

I think the - doesnt really matter but I could and have been wrong....

yea u see im getting -16 on idle when i take of and rev i think i can get to mayb 5 or 7 then when i back off it drops down to -21 then goes back to -16 i bought the gauge to find out what sort of boost im running lol i thought the gauge would tell me on iddle.... i really dont knonw how to find out wat boost im runnning can anyone fill me in??

from what i know u will always get a negative readin on idle. If you want to know what boost you're running then get a mate to sit with you while u accelerate (hard) the gauge will rise and show you your max boost. hope that helps

from what i know u will always get a negative readin on idle. If you want to know what boost you're running then get a mate to sit with you while u accelerate (hard) the gauge will rise and show you your max boost. hope that helps

kool ill give that a shot. Also i forgot to mention in my post since changing the vaccume hosses ive noticed like a BOV flutter but its coming from the pod flter is that bad ive heard about people blocking some pipes or hosses to get that sound and apparently it forces air the wrong way to the compressor and spins the turbine the wrong way

OK flutter is gone the hosses i used were to small so i bought turbosmart vac hoses and fixed it up also i was at utobarn today and the guy pointed out that the hose from my acctuator is left like a breather he told me to take the heatshield offf the turbo and reconect it to the housing but i cant find the nozzle in the end i simply reconected the carbon canaster does the stock acctuator link up to the turbo housing???

ohh and still no result in linking the boost gauge up. So i guess ill have to search for a boost leak. Whats the best way to find it??. Also another thing ive been told that it could be overfuelling making it sputter on boost ive checked the engine bay and reved her a few times and i did smell a lil bit of fuel.. does anyone know how to fix the issue if it is overfuelling??

Sorry for the bombardment of questions iots just starting to get a lil fustrating

  • 7 months later...

Mine currently sits on -15/16 during idle. All my previous turbo cars sat around that mark on the boost gauge during idle so I'm assuming it's pretty normal and you have got nothing to worry about. I had a vacuum leak once and it sat on like -5, but once I fixed the leak it went back to -15 again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...