Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know next to nothing about clutches - so take it easy on me. I have just pulled my gtr engine and box and found my clutch is rooted, so obviously need a replacment. I am only taking the car to roughly 250-260rwkw as I want to keep it reliable on the standard engine so I dont think I need to go overboard with the clutch.

I have heard from many people good advice pointing me in the direction of the NISMO coppermix twin plate but I am afraid the bills are stacking up and I wont be able to fit $2k into the budget. Speaking to N1GTR (Steve) he said the Exedy clutches are OK - just dont go over their power rating or they'll be rooted in no time.

To the question: What exedy clutch should I be looking at? The Sports Tuff or the Single Plate Ceramic? I know i'll get more rattles with the single but this doesn't worry me overmuch. Any hints? I drive the car a lot - 40,000km/yr so want something that can handle traffic and the occasional track day (though I am not seriously competing hard).

Thoughts are appreciated guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340247-which-clutch-to-get/
Share on other sites

40,000 Kms per year is quite alot don't know if you would want to be driving on a ceramic clutch that much. If its a daily driver I would be looking at something else. I've got a Exedy 3 puck ceramic, you can have it on a daily driven car but its not that comfortable im not sure how many km's there good for either.

I agree that Coppermix is probably extravagance on that power level. I'm running a ~$500 organic single with 305kw. IMO track work is not a big concern for clutches - drag on the other hand, is brutal. For my next clutch i'm thinking NPC single.

I agree that Coppermix is probably extravagance on that power level. I'm running a ~$500 organic single with 305kw. IMO track work is not a big concern for clutches - drag on the other hand, is brutal. For my next clutch i'm thinking NPC single.

what brand?

what brand?

I cant remember :) I bought it new from a forum member (Mario? Marco?) who was selling a few different types 3 years ago, and it was only rated for 240kw, but its holding fine. Give NPC a ring and see what they can do.

40,000 kms per annum? are we talking about a gtr taxi??

yea seriously agree with MrStabby, the occasional bit of track isnt a huge deal for a clutch to put up with. but frequent hard launches in a gtr will kill it in no time so drags are out in your case if you want a clutch that wont push you to suicide in peak hour traffic. i found my 3puk an absolute nightmare in peak traffic, now i've got an exedy 5puk and while it is noticeably better, i would steer clear of it if i was doing the mileage you are.

IMO - exedy full face organic, sprung center. heavy duty p/plate might be a good idea. the pedal weight might be heavy to start with but you quickly get used to it after a day or two then you dont even notice it. it'll engage smoothly thats the main thing

Edited by jonboy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...