Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after some new brake rotors for my 260RS Stagea. I want to do track days but I am worried about cross drilled brakes being "weaker" than slotted rotors and therefore warping under extreme heat conditions.

Am I being to worried and under informed here?

I can only get cross drilled (apparently) for the front so will have to run slotted on the rears. Will this be an issue?

Also can someone clear up... does this car have an R33 or R34 drivetrain.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340629-cross-drilled-verses-slotted/
Share on other sites

I can only get cross drilled (apparently) for the front so will have to run slotted on the rears. Will this be an issue?

Thanks!

How come you can only get cross drilled for the front?

There's no problem tho' to run cross drilled at the front and slots at the rear.

Cons:

Under heat, cross drilled can form blue heat patches and then a bit of cracking.

Even slots that go right up to the edge of the rotor can crack too. DBA found this out soon enough

Pros:

Slots that stay within the edges are desirable whether they be straight or fish-hook

Dimpled rotors are fine (as in RDA)

Curved vanes within the ventilation space are desirable

The cross drilled that came on my car cracked at the track, as did DBA4000s with the retarded slot design....

Very surprised you cant get slotted for the fronts - I would have guessed that your RS would have had GTR brakes or similar. The 33 and 34 GTRs had the same sized rotors. Do you have brembo calipers?

Even slots that go right up to the edge of the rotor can crack too. DBA found this out soon enough

My guess is that its more that the slot is almost perpendicular to the edge, rather that the fact that it runs right to the edge (but agreed that is also undesirable)

The RDA dimpled/slotted/gold ones run the slot all the way to the edge, but the slot is the conventional 45 degrees or so to the edge. They've been ok for me, unlike the DBA4000s.

The cross drilled that came on my car cracked at the track, as did DBA4000s with the retarded slot design....

Very surprised you cant get slotted for the fronts - I would have guessed that your RS would have had GTR brakes or similar. The 33 and 34 GTRs had the same sized rotors. Do you have brembo calipers?

You can get slotted alround. But can not get cross drilled for the rears, only the fronts.

the vehicle has Brembo brakes alround.

My guess is that its more that the slot is almost perpendicular to the edge, rather that the fact that it runs right to the edge (but agreed that is also undesirable)

The RDA dimpled/slotted/gold ones run the slot all the way to the edge, but the slot is the conventional 45 degrees or so to the edge. They've been ok for me, unlike the DBA4000s.

shit.. just bought slotted DBA4000s

are they really that bad?

^^^ If the ends of the slots are away from the perimeter of the rotor, it's all ok.

If your slots do meet the edge of the rotor at something like a 45 degree angle, you just need to watch them.

But there have been some batches of DBA 4000s with 5-10mm length slots meeting with the edge and perpendicular to the edge that have been notorious for cracking (via high heat > expansion > contraction).

When I cut glass (in leadlighting), I must start the cut right from the edge/perimeter > the glass is much more easy to break.

Another example is that medicinal tablets are meant to be 'scored' right up to the edges, to facilitate breaking cleanly - otherwise they're hard to snap.

Therefore, heat-cracking on cross drilled rotors starts at the extreme edge of the hole - which is the weakest point.

shit.. just bought slotted DBA4000s

are they really that bad?

They were pretty bad - Here is the thread. The bottom of the third page shows my ones, they don't have the slot all the way to the edge (it stops just short). I dont know if they've updated the design since then. If you're not tracking it it will be fine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...