Jump to content
SAU Community

E85 Questions

Mattyfreeman

By Mattyfreeman,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mattyfreeman Rookie

Mattyfreeman

Posted
Posted

wondering if anyone knows much about E85 fuel? did some reading and found fuel consuption can be reduced and it can take off a varnish that petrol leaves in fuel system which can clog injectors ect, also wondering if the 14yr old engine/fuel system components eg; mild metals, plastics can handle that amount of alcohol???... but its haisy on effects to performance, maybe increasing power with tuned ecu's. Iv got a r33 rb25dett and want to get it tuned soon, wondering if i will need a new ecu(only got stock atm) to run E85, and multiple maps to go back to regular petrol? Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340755-e85-questions/
Share on other sites
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

You need to modify your fuel system to cope with the extra volume needed.

Yes you will definitely need an aftermarket ECU.

E85 does clean your fuel system, you will need to replace your fuel filter every 1000kms for 10,000kms to make sure you catch all the deposits. Its a good idea to replace your fuel filter at every service after that.

Fuel consumption will increase due to the need to burn more of it. Not sure where you read it will give you better economy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340755-e85-questions/#findComment-5500605
Share on other sites
Mattyfreeman Rookie

Mattyfreeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what kind of fuel system modifications? obviously larger injectors, but will it need fully braded lines or something? very complicated/expensive?, and what about power increase and the wear on the engine, better or worse for the life of engine? will it need changes to maintenance/oils used etc.. so essentually is it worth doing, keeping in mind a new ecu and tune is already on the cards. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340755-e85-questions/#findComment-5500617
Share on other sites
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
what kind of fuel system modifications? obviously larger injectors, but will it need fully braded lines or something? very complicated/expensive?, and what about power increase and the wear on the engine, better or worse for the life of engine? will it need changes to maintenance/oils used etc.. so essentually is it worth doing, keeping in mind a new ecu and tune is already on the cards. cheers

For a daily driver i would not switch to E85 until they roll out more servos that stock it.

There are power gains to be had roughly 15%. But for a stockish car the benefits are in the reduction of detonation, which intern saves your engine.

The ONLY oils i would use for E85 are Royal Purple and Motul 6100 Synergie.

Do not use oils which contain ester.

What power level are you aiming for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340755-e85-questions/#findComment-5500673
Share on other sites
Mattyfreeman Rookie

Mattyfreeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like a stock based car, which honestly, is not worth the coin to go E85 as it means injectors/ECU/AFM just to use a certain fuel

yeh it is fairly stock, might happen in a few yrs when i end up doing the modifications along the way, and with more servos stocking it, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340755-e85-questions/#findComment-5500943
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...