Jump to content
SAU Community

C34 Stagea Awd System

Bronx

By Bronx,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

hey all, just trying to wonder what the awd system of the stage is based on? (s2) so r33 setup

is it a mechanical diff or electrical diff?

torsen, viscose etc setup???

from what i know and have been told, it stays in rwd until it feels that the rear is exceeding its torque output and to stop it from slipping it will engage the front.

or is it just clutch driven??? clutch is disengaged until it feels slippage etc and then presses clutch together to connect the front wheels??

Jean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340964-c34-stagea-awd-system/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

at the rear of the gearbox is a 4 or 5 row chain that wraps around the exit shaft

the chain runs into the transfer box where it meets the front drive shaft

between the shaft and the chain is a series of clutch packs which are designed to slip al little (a bit like an auto box) when some power is needed up front, the pump adds pressure to the clutch packs and some of the torque/power is transfered to the front wheels

the max power to the rear is 100% and when the clutch packs are fully engaged the torque split is 50:50

Global_Warmer Proficient

Global_Warmer

Posted
Posted
at the rear of the gearbox is a 4 or 5 row chain that wraps around the exit shaft

the chain runs into the transfer box where it meets the front drive shaft

between the shaft and the chain is a series of clutch packs which are designed to slip al little (a bit like an auto box) when some power is needed up front, the pump adds pressure to the clutch packs and some of the torque/power is transfered to the front wheels

the max power to the rear is 100% and when the clutch packs are fully engaged the torque split is 50:50

Thanks for posting this info up. I was also wondering how the drive system works.

Dunno what you'd have to be doing to get 100% driveto the front wheels or 50:50 as you also called it. Even "popping" the clutch at 4000rpm while rolling in 1st gear with my brass button exeedy clutch makes the gauge for the front drive move a lil bit.

Global_Warmer Proficient

Global_Warmer

Posted
Posted
aaaah, this is pretty cool. sounds interesting, may google more

I ran it through Google as well (on between load 200ton trucks at work) and found some great info on it on Wikipedia. There was even a video on it! I will be having an indepth look as soon as I get home.

Its a bloody awesome drivetrain. The Japanese are bloody Clever!

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
the max power to the rear is 100% and when the clutch packs are fully engaged the torque split is 50:50

Max power while the system is operating normally is 95% to the rear. This is why you can't just pull the fuse to go in to 2WD mode, there is a procedure and it works, 100% RWD.

The system is pretty much based on the R33 GTS4 system, runs 5% preload to the front and splits more torque as it feels it's needed.

Global_Warmer Proficient

Global_Warmer

Posted
Posted
Another truck driver or a loader driver at a mine? I drive container trucks - mere 45 tonne max!

Yup. I work in a coal mine. I operate the smallest Digger there which weighs 300ton. Most of the others are 600tonners and the largest 2 are 1200tonners... Those babys can dump 100tons of dirt on a truck in one scoop! :D

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
anyone got the link to that rwd procedure (the one that you can leave the front driveshaft in)

I have posted it up a number of times...

But here goes again..

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

Disconnect it.

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...