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Specs:

R32 RB25DE NA Head - $750 (purchase) + $880 (Rebuild/Work)

Stock cams

Inlet 240dur 7.8mm Lift

Exhaust 232dur 7.3mm Lift

Very mild port & polish job mainly concentrating on the bowl area of the exhaust port.

Inlet valves deshrouded

Inlet valve seats have had a 3 angle seat job done.

Exhaust valves have had another type of seat job that is best for the airflow direction.

Head, manifolds & plenum port matched.

Stainless Steel Headgasket with built in O-Ring (Looks like it has 3 layers?!)

Series II VL Commodore RB30E NA Short Motor - $3450

Crack Tested - Crank, Rods & Block.

87mm RB25DET Wiesco forged pistons ~8.5:1CR

RB25DET oil pump <- Thanx Clint32.

Nissan Rod bolts

Nissan Head bolts

King Performance Bearings

Blue printed

RB20DET Flywheel <- Thanx Clint32.

Balanced using the Heinz Balancer to 1 gram

A few extra charges:

Face Flywheel - $50

Fit Head, Drill & Tap Tensioner above waterpump & fit cam belt - $200

Cam Belt - $38.50

Chris Milton Engineering worked on the head, the head had to be sent back which cost me another $80 as they missed a protruding exhaust valve seat on No. 5 combustion chamber. The protruding valve seat would have caused detonation. So yer.. you guessed it.. Not happy.

Darren (Bl4ck32) is also getting his motor built up with virtually the same specs. Maybe this is why we were quoted such a good price on the bottom end.

City Dismantlers with Andrew the wizz who is rebuilding the engine & doing a little bit of research in order to make me happy with the final compression ratio.

He definately knows his stuff & has worked on many performance RB30's in the past, he is easy to talk to and has put up with me and my friggin questions. :)

He sets a fixed price from the beginning and it doesn't change. He uses all of the latest machinery (Heinz Balance to 1 gram) and is very thorough (crack test block/crank/rods).

Well what can I say.... Can't wait. :headspin:

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OHHH YEAH! :wassup:

Also to the list are the support system upgrades (for me) :

HKS 3037s

550cc injectors

AP Engineering Power FC + Hand controller

Bosch fuel pump

Rb25det gearbox + single piece tailshaft

And sum 17" deep dish mofo's to get it to see the ground. :P

sweet, cant wait to see both your beasts up and prowling the streets, where can I book in for a ride?:P:D:D

Good things are worth waiting for, just be careful as fits of laughter and huge shit eating grins when you are driving make you look like you have been up to something:p

Yeah, done some research on bearings. Here's a page on the clevites :

http://engineparts.com/products/trimetal.html

If u read it, it explains about bimetal and trimetal bearings. Then have a look at King bearings page:

http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html

Wow I didnt realise rebuilds were this cheap. I always thought they were mega $$$!. I was thinking about getting my SR20 a freshen up sometime...

What is the expected power output? 300rwkw should be crossed relatively easily!!

The $3500 is just for the motor. It doesn't include installation / tuning. Joel and myself are doin the hard work of removing / installing the new motors.

I'd hope the 300rwkw would be crossed, but over 350 u need to go forged rods etc...$$ Its hard when to say stop when spending on parts but it snowballs if u cant put a limit on power. Were aiming for reliability as well.

The $3500 is just for the motor. It doesn't include installation / tuning. Joel and myself are doin the hard work of removing / installing the new motors.

I'd hope the 300rwkw would be crossed, but over 350 u need to go forged rods etc...$$ Its hard when to say stop when spending on parts but it snowballs if u cant put a limit on power. Were aiming for reliability as well.

$3500 is still very cheap, surprised u didnt get a high volume oil pump and large + baffeled sump also. What turbo is going on this system and what power are you looking for?

I cant speak for joel, but if i could have stretched for the extras (they were on the cards believe me) i would have.

I asked Andrew about the oil pump and he said Mark Tilbrook built a motor that was similar and used the std rb30 oil pump.

These are mainly street engines, with maybe the one trip down the 1/4 or out at Mallala.

Turbo is listed above.

A few reasons. 3037 ProS has t3 flange i believe. Bolts on to std. manifold. (trying to keep costs down again :))

A mainfold + ext. wastegated turbo = instant defect.

As Joel said :

Can use the stock manifold etc. + from Greenline by the time I buy external gate custom manifold etc the price works out more than the ProS.. Guess I will find out if that is to be true when I drop the motor in the car. Always hidden costs that you forget about.

My car is in final stages of getting built, hoping to tune tomorrow with garret 3040, custom high mount manifold and 45mm ext race gate and all the other goodies you need to support.

I was advised if i wanted realiable/responsive hp to ditch the stock cast manifold coz its rubbish. I know people will say "I made over 300rwkw with the stock manifold" that not the point, as screw in enough boost and you will make high hp but just how efficient and responsive it comes on is what matters.

Just food for thought.

INANST,

The oil pump we are using which bumps the price up to 4k is a R32 GTR pump. So yer it is a high flow pump ample for the RB30DET single turbo. I was considering the N1 pump however Andrew said if its only a higher pressure pump stick with the std. GTR pump as the higher pressure is not always good for a low reving street motor. It is fine for a motor that spins up to 9k. The GTR pump will supply ample oil even if I do end up baffling the sump and using it for the occasional track day to stick it in third with low rev's out of a corner and power past STEVE! heheh :P

The HKS3037ProS on the stock manifold will be fine, remember its a 3ltr so the engine is going to be much more responsive compared to the RB25DET. The point is we don't have a money tree and have to start drawing the line some where. I doubt having a nice exhaust manifold will make that much difference. Well not 1k worth of a difference. :)

If I did have an extra 1k I would much prefer to get a set of cams to help bring the peak power up to around 7000rpm.

Have you driven a RB20DET then jumped in to a RB25DET, huge difference in bottom end torque/spool speed. Sitting in the passenger seat you don't notice it, drive it and you will walk away glad to get back in your 2.5ltr.

Sure you may be able to pick up a little bit of response with an after market exhaust manifold but not enough to worry me, what would worry me more is if the cops saw a non std. exhaust manifold/gate.

From other peoples experience the stock RB exhaust manifold starts running in to problems up around 320rwkw. Hits a brick wall if you like, you can keep pumping in the boost but she won't make any more power. Even then at that power level a set of nice tyres or better diff is going to make more of a difference than a exhaust manifold. I guess it comes down to the individuals prioritys and what they seee as the best bang for buck.

Picked up the clutch today.

Its an Xtreme Extra Heavy Duty (Just over 1000kg's) Cushioned Ceramic Button Clutch. I think thats what its called. :( Tim's had one in a Supra that was/is making 308rwkw with no reliability problems as it is still in the car today.

What Clutch are you running Matt?

I got that same clutch joel in mine, but i think your are kidding yourself too much saying a well made high mount manifold will only help alittle bit. The stock manifold is just like the other stock parts on the car, exhaust, turbo, intercooler, they are all made on a cost per basis budget. U know the stock cooler, turbo and exhaust system aint the best, so dont think the manifold is anything special either.

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