Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello!

Im planning to buy a turbo kit for my R33 GTR from Powerhouse Racing

My internals are simple HKS 2.8L Stroker with bearings, ARP rods, new greddt headgasket

Will it hold för 600-700whp?

Well i was going for the T88 but on the PHR site i found 2 other turbo kits t78-t88 and a new one called TD05.

So as i said im looking for a turbo that can handle 700hp but i will probably go for 650whp or something like that.

Will my engine hold? and do i need to spend much more for a good engine?

T04Z and 2 bar of boost will get you there.

I heard thats a good turbo, Will my engine hold? I am gonna leave the engine for some inspection but i want to know what you guys say.

Thanks for the fast answer!

If the engine was properly assembled and balanced, and its tuned properly, you should have no problem sustaining the sort of power levels you are talking about provided you select the right turbo and have all the supporting fuel/cooling/oiling systems in place.

If the engine was properly assembled and balanced, and its tuned properly, you should have no problem sustaining the sort of power levels you are talking about provided you select the right turbo and have all the supporting fuel/cooling/oiling systems in place.

Thanks know im feeling better knowing my engine will hold :D

thats the same set-up as me 2.8L TO4Z .84 garret 710awhp, is absolutely nuts :) scared the shit out of a few mates..

also considering the GT4088R check that out, I went the TO4 because is was tried and proved, plenty of dyno results to look at..

thats the same set-up as me 2.8L TO4Z .84 garret 710awhp, is absolutely nuts :) scared the shit out of a few mates..

also considering the GT4088R check that out, I went the TO4 because is was tried and proved, plenty of dyno results to look at..

Oh nice mate, Can you put up some dyno results? You drive the car on the weekends or every day?

I heard thats a good turbo, Will my engine hold? I am gonna leave the engine for some inspection but i want to know what you guys say.

Thanks for the fast answer!

Will your engine hold? dont bet on it, and for how long, many have failed.

Good luck, I hope it works out.

Will your engine hold? dont bet on it, and for how long, many have failed.

Good luck, I hope it works out.

It wont fail if you have a good tune i knew a guy wich had 600hp on stock engine he started the car a year ago and its still running, He had an awsome tuner.

Not trying to put you off but there's not much info in your threads, 2 bar, 650 to 700hp is a lot of strain and mumbo! how many kms on the engine, who built it, how much work has it done? The tune is one thing but the engine clearances, tolerances and ware is another thing on an already built engine.

The last time I had my engine inspected it involved pulling the engine out and inspecting a big end bearing, sadly they were all f#$&ed after 2000kms.

Hopefully all goes well, but asking if your engine will hold is like asking how longs a piece of stringl. Good luck!

Oh nice mate, Can you put up some dyno results? You drive the car on the weekends or every day?

Its the last post in the RB26 dyno results.. not a daily but more than just weekends..

as for will it last, yeah how long is a piece of string, you see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking built ones ??

you would hope if they have gone to the trouble and expense of the stroker it would be done properly..

no point living life thinking what if ..

just take it up slowly and see if anything comes up (or out) :P

22-24psi should see you around 600whp

Edited by tricstar
Its the last post in the RB26 dyno results.. not a daily but more than just weekends..

as for will it last, yeah how long is a piece of string, you see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking built ones ??

you would hope if they have gone to the trouble and expense of the stroker it would be done properly..

no point living life thinking what if ..

just take it up slowly and see if anything comes up (or out) :P

22-24psi should see you around 600whp

No point living life thinking what if.. But definitley worth considering, my comments are based on the guy having made only 12 post and having asked the question more than once if the engine will last, having an already built engine (God knows who built it or what its been through), I suspect he is new to the wonderfull world of GTR's so just some words of caution.

"You see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking new ones" This is very true. (without rubbishing any engine builders)

Based on the limited information 2 bar would be risky without knowing more, maybe the straw that breaks the camels back, I've had 4 engines in my car (pisses me right off) and used to run 25psi with tomei cams, motec, 2871-10 turbos and many other goodies, these days I run 20psi, smaller turbos, std cams shafts and have never looked back. (my choice only)

22-24psi sounds more realistic, 600whp, still bloody fast.

Its the last post in the RB26 dyno results.. not a daily but more than just weekends..

as for will it last, yeah how long is a piece of string, you see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking built ones ??

you would hope if they have gone to the trouble and expense of the stroker it would be done properly..

no point living life thinking what if ..

just take it up slowly and see if anything comes up (or out) :)

22-24psi should see you around 600whp

Your results are on a hub dyno though are they not?

No point living life thinking what if.. But definitley worth considering, my comments are based on the guy having made only 12 post and having asked the question more than once if the engine will last, having an already built engine (God knows who built it or what its been through), I suspect he is new to the wonderfull world of GTR's so just some words of caution.

"You see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking new ones" This is very true. (without rubbishing any engine builders)

Based on the limited information 2 bar would be risky without knowing more, maybe the straw that breaks the camels back, I've had 4 engines in my car (pisses me right off) and used to run 25psi with tomei cams, motec, 2871-10 turbos and many other goodies, these days I run 20psi, smaller turbos, std cams shafts and have never looked back. (my choice only)

22-24psi sounds more realistic, 600whp, still bloody fast.

Well yeah im new to GTRs and the engine is Built by MGT Racing before it reached me in Sweden, I put on some GT-RS turbos and i had the car for 4 months now and run 500hp with no problem at all MGT said that the car was built to do more than that and GT-RS turbos was nothing for it, And ive had 700hp volvos before so im not new into engines and i can handle a car at 700hp.

I leave the engine for inspection tomorrow to one of Swedens best tuners/engine builders lets see what they say

Oh, i forgot to say its an N1 block :)

btw i came in to the forums this year and i barley used it you cant judge me buy looking at my posts.

Edited by SKYGTRONE
Your results are on a hub dyno though are they not?

yeah,, I had it tuned before on a rear wheel dyno only weeks before, and made 550rwhp , then on the awhp hub dyno only made 520awhp, on the same tune...

after retune made 710awhp ,,

was hitting boost cut on cool nights @28psi . so have pulled the boost back 1.5psi so maybe 680awhp (on a hub) what ever that is? is it a percentage less??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...