Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Thinking about purchasing a new set of wheels. These ones will be mostly for show so i was thinking of getting 19s. But if the widths and offsets on the list wont do for an R33 GTST then ill stick with 18s.

What can i fit under the guards:

varrstoenwheelchart.jpg

Only interested in the 2.2.1 or 2.2.2 wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341151-what-offset-can-i-get-away-with/
Share on other sites

woah thats kinda confusin for a 33 id be stickin with 18s personally.

fronts you'd be going 22 or 35 depding what look and how you want it to sit how much work to make it fit etc.

rears 9.5 +0? or 10.5+22 will need lot of work for 10.5s and lots of camber so without knowing your application im given you advice on what i would do.

for practicality (and not knowing what rim it is or desing) you could easily do an 8.5 or 9 front with a 9.5 rear but will be pretty conservative with the high offset options.

the 18x8 and 18x9s have a pretty weak offset,go 18x9.5 with 22 offset all round. will look pretty good

i run 17x10 rear and 17x9 front both are 17 offset and just fits with stretched tyres (no camber arms or flared guards) :P

yeh but running same size all round for what reason? i mean each to there own but personally unless its a gtr it just seems ghey

yeah fair enough, but the smaller width rims dont have a good offset, the reason why i didnt say the 10.5" is i thaught u guys have strict rules re. the size of wheels you can get? but i totally agree which is why i run a staggered fitment :D

and NYTSKY you might want choose wether you want matt black or full polish, as the full polish doesnt seem to have many offset options and might require more work putting them on

Ive had 19x10.5 on the back before but with a +42 offset.

Not really keen on the same widths all round either.

Id like 19x9 19x10.5 but the offsets listed are very aggressive and IMO couldnt fit with conventional guard work. So maybe new guards are on the cards :)

i would fit a 9.5 +22 front and a 10.5 +22 rear.

235/40 all round.

guard roll and some camber made by lowering the car and should fit well!

I don't see the point in running a 10.5" wide wheel to stick 235s on it, dont forget daves car has nearly 600hp at the treads and will have more soon.

true. but he did say these were for show as well. so if he wants to tuck 10.5's then 235 would be good. im sure he could fit a 255 also. heck even a 275?!

im not 100% sure how much wider a 33 is but i can fit a 9.5 +15 under rolled r32 gtst guards with a 245/40

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...