Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What an event - I had an awesome time - Should be on Speedweek soon and now I understand what Michele means when she says that somehow IQ drops to -10 once a camera and microphone is stuck in your face.

The picture in picture is incar footage from the EVO car number 455 which you catch a glimpse of at around turn three (orange wheels)

Words cannot describe the fun I had :P:wave::D

My best time on the day was 1.44, so starting to sort the car out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/
Share on other sites

thats awesome mark! what class are you in?

what was the understeering from that the car had when you got it, did you fix it ?

thats the sort of race i wanna watch, so many different cars!

i messed myself..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5511377
Share on other sites

thats awesome mark! what class are you in?

Japanese Turbo

what was the understeering from that the car had when you got it, did you fix it ?

The problem was with the 4wd, there wasn't any... fixed now, but still needs a lot of tweaking as to how/when the 4wd comes in. A company I wont mention on here, who NO LONGER has stickers on my car because they REFUSED to tell us how THEY had 'changed' the way 4wd was working on this car, unless I took it to their friend in Sydney and got their friend to phone them when it was on the dyno. Fortunately, his friend in Sydney is better than that and it didn't need to get on the dyno to fix the problem. I eventually found the main problem after wasting a lot of unnessessary time... it needed a fuse in the bastardised system they had put into it to run 4wd. So I intend to upgrade the system that is running the 4wd so its 1) not constant 2) varies to degree of cornering and pressures. At the moment, its like having a switch on your dash, either ON or OFF, not the best setup at all, but fixable.

thats the sort of race i wanna watch, so many different cars!

i messed myself..

You think you messed yourself now? Wait until you do it... and this is one event you could do, come around and see me for more details on how you enter and see the footage of when I pulled into the garage, then you will know how much fun it was lmao

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5511751
Share on other sites

Looks like great fun. 1st in class?? who didn't you overtake.

I didn't overtake the Mosler MT900RGT3... but then... he didn't overtake me either in the handicap, he was right behind me for over a lap, I thought for sure he would take me LOL I was pretty chuffed when he didn't get me.

Click here to see it

http://www.btphoto.com.au/gallerypages/ira...s/DSC_5141.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5511779
Share on other sites

I didn't overtake the Mosler MT900RGT3...

That's not a car behind you, it a space fighter :P

I don't want to do the bonnet pins look for my car, but I'd love to get into a race like this. Upgrades are approved, so in a few months I'll be getting some track based suspension. Still will need the real engine upgrades to keep it 100% safe for the motor.

Guess I could already buy a car with suspension and engine work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5512041
Share on other sites

Japanese Turbo

The problem was with the 4wd, there wasn't any... fixed now, but still needs a lot of tweaking as to how/when the 4wd comes in. A company I wont mention on here, who NO LONGER has stickers on my car because they REFUSED to tell us how THEY had 'changed' the way 4wd was working on this car, unless I took it to their friend in Sydney and got their friend to phone them when it was on the dyno. Fortunately, his friend in Sydney is better than that and it didn't need to get on the dyno to fix the problem. I eventually found the main problem after wasting a lot of unnessessary time... it needed a fuse in the bastardised system they had put into it to run 4wd. So I intend to upgrade the system that is running the 4wd so its 1) not constant 2) varies to degree of cornering and pressures. At the moment, its like having a switch on your dash, either ON or OFF, not the best setup at all, but fixable.

You think you messed yourself now? Wait until you do it... and this is one event you could do, come around and see me for more details on how you enter and see the footage of when I pulled into the garage, then you will know how much fun it was lmao

why would they have it setup for RWD?

well my cage from bonds should be here today and apart from some small things (tow points, new harness etc) i should be getting it log booked soon :(

i'll pop by today if thats ok, i want to talk to Michelle about BLCC sprint in dec.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5513941
Share on other sites

why would they have it setup for RWD?

well my cage from bonds should be here today and apart from some small things (tow points, new harness etc) i should be getting it log booked soon :P

i'll pop by today if thats ok, i want to talk to Michelle about BLCC sprint in dec.

They didn't set it up for rwd, the fuse went in the system they put in to manage 4wd, just took me a while to find it.

Give Michele a call, I know she was trying to get you to let you know it was open. We are camping at Mcphilamy Park again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341517-iracenetau/#findComment-5515442
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...