Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've found a few posts on SAU about doing an auto-to-manual conversion, but it seems in general not widely done.

Have asked a few auto shops if they can do it, but they've all told me they either won't do it, or to go find the parts myself and then come back to get a quote for labour.

I'm not much of a mechanic, so I'm not confident I could do it myself, plus it's also my everyday car, so I can't put it on hold for an indefinite amount of time without knowing when I'm gonna complete if (if I was to do some of the work myself).

Anyone have any ideas how achievable this is? N/A manual R34s seem rare.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341831-auto-to-manual-conversion-for-r34/
Share on other sites

i got my 34 done early this year (january i think it was)....

it's really easy?? all you need is 33 bits.... i used R33 GTST box ($1,200)

all up it cost me $3,000 with the shop sourcing the parts + labour... i know i could of saved alot sourcing the parts myself but was really lazy :)

if you need any help theres a thread on here im pretty sure somewhere that i was reading when i was getting my done it was a DIY tutorial on auto-man conversion with a full parts list.. if not man i have my recipets here i can easily dig up and get you a full parts list and a general price guide of each part..

Also a few places might tell you that you need to change your ECU however auto ecu works fine with a manual conversion... the changing of the ECU is compeltley up to you.. i left my Auto one in the only downfall is that your A/T light will stay on constantly (its prety hard to find a stock 34 manual ecu by the way) i searched for months no one has one... alternatively you could throw more money into the conversion and get a full aftermarket ECU + tune... which i eventually have done anyways...

cheers

I had a manual conversion done on my R34 about 18 months ago

It cost me about $1500 using a standard NA R34 Box with very low k's and as many brand new parts as possible (Mate works at Repco so got the clutch, master/slave cylinders and a lot of other fiddly stuff at staff pricing)

Labor cost me a couple of cartons of booze

I have also kept the Auto ECU and haven't noticed any issues apart from the A/T light on the dash

From what I have heard, a lot of people have trouble getting the speedo to work when using the R33 parts

It is the best thing you can do to one of these cars, you will not regret it if you go ahead...

Have you considered just buying a turbo manual - it'll probably just be cheaper and easier :down:

Still on P's. :-/

I'm looking at just getting a manual imported and selling my current one; probably sounds like it'll be the easier way to go. I'd love to do the work myself/collect all the parts, but no time. :|!

Thanks for your advice; hopefully this might be useful to someone else in the future!

i got my conversion done just over a month ago and it all cost me around $3000..

yes it would have defs worked out cheaper to sell and buy a manual r34 but my car is mechaniacally perfect and i didnt wana risk selling my car and buying another one which might have mechanical issues..

i got most of my parts from general japanese parts in nsw. speak to patrick.. i got my gearbox on ebay but i wouldnt recomend doing that.. i was wuite lucky to get a gd one off an r33.

theres a lisst of the main things u need

Gearbox r33 or r34

Manual tailshaft

Manual gearbox cross member

Shifter (ive got one sitting around if ur interested)

gearknob

Clutch kit (id recomend getting a new one)

RB flywheel with all 6 bolts

Manual spigot bush (any rb25)

Clutch master cylinder

piping with master cylinder

slave sylinder with 2 bolts to bolt on gearbox

pedal assembly

manual ecu

Gearbox oil (dnt go cheap on that only have to be done once so do it right)

I used my auto suround cover aswell and got a gear boot trimed out for it

rubber boot cover for shifter

u'll also need a kit for the speedo to work (my mechanic got that sorted for me)

i think thats pretty much it.. il let u know if i come up with things ive missed..

anyways good luck with the conversion mate.. have been enjoying my car so much more since! its unreal how much difference it makes to the car!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...