Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i have a r32 gtr which has been running a bit weird latetly.

at first it was occasionally about once a week, but now its getting more common, like at least everytime i drive it.

cold mornings its fine, once it starts warming up is when the problem occurs.

i first noticed it when i parked my car, let the turbo timer do its thing then just as i was walking away it started spluttering at idle, did that for 5 seconds then regained normal idle. it also did this while waiting at a set of traffice lights (even while i was rolling upto them) blip the throttle a few times and it sometimes goes back to normal idle.

why is it doin this?? its VERY annoying, ive even swapped the idle position sensor and still had the same problem.

also say im just driving down the road, it will even splutter (like its out of fuel?) nd have no response on throttle. then as im trying to accelerate in gear (while still doin speed limit, slowly gettin slower) it sounds like it misfires. sometimes this goes on for 5 mins and i cant even drive it, and other times its over in 10 seconds? then back to prefectly normal.

even if you hold your foot in the same spot on the accelerator pedal, it will cut out, accelerate, cut out etc..

i seriously have no idea whats wrong with it.. fuel pump? something to do with idle control? but that wont help the problem while at speed? it could be 2 different problems.

if anyone could help that would be GREATLY appreciated

Cheers.

Also check the cam angle sensor, you can just unbolt it and have a look. Mine had broken teeth causing this, replaced with $100 second hand CAS and worked fine.

^ When I changed the turbos it started fine, misfired after 20 mins, started feeling like you were turning the ignition on/off etc. I checked afm's, cleaned injectors, filter, ignition module, etc. Replaced the CAS with a mates, still no go, changed back to mine, worked fine. Turned out the plug for the CAS just needed a wiggle/twist. Dunno if your prob is the same but,

Coils: I'd unplug one coil to see if it sounds different/makes it worse. Check each coil, takes but a few mins.

AFM: I'd simply get AFM cleaner and clean it anyways, if it's the stock one. Few bucks, worth it.

CAS: Wiggle the plug/Unplug and reseat. Borrow one from a friend before spending money on replacement.

Fuel Filter: Cheap, but nasty to replace if you have big hands.

Plugs: How old?

cheers guys, its hard to diagnose cos its not always happening, just sometimes desides to do it.

wiggled/unplugged the CAS - same

its not the coils either, checked them

plugs are probly due for a change, but that would make it run shit all the time? or not?

but when i un-plugged the AFM it started to run shitty, exactly like the problem i explained above.. then after a few seconds it regains idle but wont rev over a few thousand revs, (not crisp anyway)

is there any sort of tests for AFM?? to see if they working correctly? or faulty?

thanks, will try to find an igniter and see how it goes.

but how do you know if the AFMs are dodgy? any way of telling? or just have to swap nd see?

just swapped the AFMs with another working pair from another GTR, seems to be working perfectly fine atm.

hopefully this is the problem! nothing worse than not knowing what the hell is wrong, hate guess work haha

need to find a set of AFMs now, or find out which one was faulty if not both.

thanks alot guys!

Cheers.

just swapped the AFMs with another working pair from another GTR, seems to be working perfectly fine atm.

hopefully this is the problem! nothing worse than not knowing what the hell is wrong, hate guess work haha

need to find a set of AFMs now, or find out which one was faulty if not both.

thanks alot guys!

Cheers.

Id replace both. If you do try to buy a set of nismo ones, they are more expensive but have the same characteristics of a Z32 meter which is good if you make some more serious mods to the motor.

Yeh I was looking at some nismo ones, still not sure yet.. Either quick and cheaper fix with STD ones or upgrade to z32 or nismo and get it re tuned. I do wana upgrade the engine later down the track tho, but my pockets arnt deep enough at the moment hah

May go for the cheap fix first then upgrade a bit later on

Cheers mate

fair enough.. looks serious! haha

i just got HKS pods, lookin to change to the Apexi setup.. will get onto nismo ones soon!

but in the meantime will std AFMs from a Aus delivered GTR work on an imported GTR? i was just wondering if they are diff?? probs a stupid question but am just curious?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
    • Thanks for the details mate , for me I think being a daily driven and happy with a basic tune (630Nm and 310kw) . Seems to be working well I just put on a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4 should help put the power down. I'm going to start looking a brakes and LSD in the future so I might reach out to you on options to upgrade the brakes. Cheers - Dee   
    • I have a HR34 GT... RB20DE My speedo doesn't work! The rest of the gauges seem to work, fuel and RPM. I did not notice if my odometer was going up when driving last.  Any ideas? Speed sensor? Hopefully atleast... Gauge cluster perhaps? Or is that unlikely because the other gauges are working?   Any insight is appreciated. This is a rather new to me car. Lol 
×
×
  • Create New...