Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Running 2.3mm of shims and locked as in the 180sx, all day, everyday. I love it, it's very predictable, and I like the way the car handles with it. In comparison, I hated the viscous lsd before shimming that would open up whenever I tried to put the power down, including in a straight line.. With 230rwkw there was no way I could keep it straight, but with shimming it's perfect.

Have heard of people going a year or more with their shims as good as they were when new. Depends on how thick you go and what condition the diff is in.

Did it over a few beers with some mates. Cost = Shim $18, Diff oil $25, plus beer and ciggies.

Works a treat, and chunks, skips and chirps everywhere lol Will report if it loosens up at all.

PS - it's great in the wet if you know how to use your brakes/ebrake!

Edited by fiend.
Running 2.3mm of shims and locked as in the 180sx, all day, everyday. I love it, it's very predictable, and I like the way the car handles with it. In comparison, I hated the viscous lsd before shimming that would open up whenever I tried to put the power down, including in a straight line.. With 230rwkw there was no way I could keep it straight, but with shimming it's perfect.

Have heard of people going a year or more with their shims as good as they were when new. Depends on how thick you go and what condition the diff is in.

Did it over a few beers with some mates. Cost = Shim $18, Diff oil $25, plus beer and ciggies.

Works a treat, and chunks, skips and chirps everywhere lol Will report if it loosens up at all.

PS - it's great in the wet if you know how to use your brakes/ebrake!

you should look into better diff oil.... $25 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap

I removed a 0.8mm and a 1.4mm shim and replaced with two 1.49mm, was pretty tight to begin with, a lot of clunking etc.

Couple of months on now and I barely notice it except when full lock reversing out of a parking spot, but even then it's barely noticable.

Still spins both wheels very predictably.. much safer in the bus than the old open centre :P

you should look into better diff oil.... $25 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap

It's a viscous lsd with so much preload that all the spider gears are bound up. I have a thick 85w140 oil in there for that reason, and predictability under heat. Penrite limslip should do the job fine imo, it's made for diffs under heavy load. Have used redline heavyweight before, but sif spend $80+ on diff oil for a backyard locked diff lol What oil were you going to suggest?

Oh btw 1400+km's and 3 days straight of tromping up and down the Great Ocean Road and she's still as tight as the day she went in. Very predictable and fine in the wet too, as long as you are sensible about corner entries and shift the weight appropriately.

but sif spend $80+ on diff oil for a backyard locked diff lol What oil were you going to suggest?

that's actually quite a good point...

i use motul gear competition 75W - 140 on my nismo 1.5 way

  • 1 month later...

i have a welded diff on mine since i cant afford a real one just yet . its fun especially on rainy days...but u gotta realize that its locked at all times and going into turns at a fast speed will break traction instasly and make your rear end go nutts. and when normal driving and especially in city limits..hahha be prepared to get strange looks from pedestrians when u take a slow turns...hhahha u go by tires real fast....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...