Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Silly question.

And an equally silly first response.

Depends on the motor condition. Have you had it checked?

Depends on the tune/tuner. Have you had it looked into by a reputable tuner?

Depends on supporting mods. Are all the supporting mods in place?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5527133
Share on other sites

Silly question.

And an equally silly first response.

Depends on the motor condition. Have you had it checked?

Depends on the tune/tuner. Have you had it looked into by a reputable tuner?

Depends on supporting mods. Are all the supporting mods in place?

Depends how much he really cares if his compressor wheels find their way through the intercooler lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5527262
Share on other sites

I thought I read somewhere that only the 34 N1 or something weren't ceramic....or moreso, that at least one of the "N1" turbos wasn't steel compressor AND exhaust.

No N1's are all steel wheeled, you might be thinking about standard turbos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5527304
Share on other sites

Depends on the motor condition. Have you had it checked?

Depends on the tune/tuner. Have you had it looked into by a reputable tuner?

Depends on supporting mods. Are all the supporting mods in place?

Depends on all the above,

if you have fuel system to support more than 14psi then i wouldnt be pushing much past 18psi

on a built motor and supporting fuel system you might get away with 20psi high boost.

just make sure that your AFR are correct for the boost level you're running, there is no point running 18psi if you cant give the motor enough fuel for that amount of air

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5527553
Share on other sites

Silly question.

And an equally silly first response.

Depends on the motor condition. Have you had it checked?

Depends on the tune/tuner. Have you had it looked into by a reputable tuner?

Depends on supporting mods. Are all the supporting mods in place?

if it wasnt standard i would have noted the modifications.

the motor is in good condition, its only done 68,000klms.

ive checked compression, valve clearances, spring pressure, injector pulse, you name it ive checked it.

i want answers like the first one, i was looking for people telling me how much they were running on their RB26's not people telling me what they think i should be running.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5528481
Share on other sites

Depends on all the above,

if you have fuel system to support more than 14psi then i wouldnt be pushing much past 18psi

on a built motor and supporting fuel system you might get away with 20psi high boost.

just make sure that your AFR are correct for the boost level you're running, there is no point running 18psi if you cant give the motor enough fuel for that amount of air

its running 15psi standard without the restrictor. theres is no issues with the air/fuel ratio.

i just want to know how much psi people are running on their own rb26s.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5528484
Share on other sites

if it wasnt standard i would have noted the modifications.

the motor is in good condition, its only done 68,000klms.

ive checked compression, valve clearances, spring pressure, injector pulse, you name it ive checked it.

i want answers like the first one, i was looking for people telling me how much they were running on their RB26's not people telling me what they think i should be running.

A answer of "XX" psi is a silly and dangerous one mate.

So are you going to get it tuned?

If not, then i wouldn't be running 18psi at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5528493
Share on other sites

A answer of "XX" psi is a silly and dangerous one mate.

So are you going to get it tuned?

If not, then i wouldn't be running 18psi at all.

i probly will get it tuned but,

im not going to jack up the boost on mine. i dont even have a boost controller. im trying to keep it fairly standard in the hope that maybe 10 or 15 years down the track it might be worth a little bit.

i just want to know what people are running, and what people have run that has caused problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342663-rb26-psi/#findComment-5528593
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...