Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This time without breaking forum rules ( my apologies )

I am selling my r34 gtt skyline due to needing a deposit for a house.

Please see my profile for pictures.

It has rb30 bottom end with r34 neo head.

Bottem end specs - crank treated grub screwed and oil collar fitted, argo race rods, mahle skirtless pistons 40 though oversized, acl race series big ends and mains, arp head and main studs, rb25 oil pump, repositioned second timing belt tensioner. cometic mls head gasket.

Head full service and tomei type b cams, vvti retained.

bolt ons - plazmaman plenum and plazmaman throttle body, extreme turbo manifolds 100 series exhauste manifold double black ceramic coated, tial 44mm wastegate, garrett to4z turbo rear housing ceramic coated, sard rising rate fuel reg, sard 800cc injectors, 2 bosch 044 fuel pumps feeding twin entry fuel rail, custom surge tank, oil cooler kit with thermostate block. large front mount intercooler, turbosmart blowoff valve, npc race clutch, greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller, custom alloy airbox with large k&n air filter.

Engine bay got resprayed when engine was out getting built. car has lenzo s7 wheels 19 inch with good tread on tyres, also has nismo adjustable rear wing stays.

Has adjustable camber and castor arms and fitted with dba 4000 front rotors

This car goes extremely well, huge power and responce with a lot of rb30 torque. all is managed by an autronic sm4 computer system.

ANY REALISTIC OFFER CONSIDERED FOR QUICK SALE

my asking price is very low as i really need to sell this car but also reflects the minor faults i have found with the car and these are, a few minor scratches on the vehicle, the clear coat has a couple of small patches that have lifted on the rear wing ( just needs re-clearing ) there are wear marks in the carpet on the drivers side from my foot rubbing through when i didnt have floor mats fitted. the low price reflects these faults and are all easily fixed. car made over 350rwkw last time on the dyno but stopped tuning there only due to the engine still running in it has now done 4500km since built and is ready to be opened right up will easily make over 400kw with the current setup.

car is located in perth but will happily put it on a car transporter wich winning bidder would organise. has current nsw rego untill june 2011 but will also transfer it to WA for a local buyer.

asking $15000

please p.m any enquiries

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342765-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good thing at a realistic price, I would PM you but as im new here i dont have enough posts up to qualify me. I'm assuming that as the car has NSW rego you have payed transport costs to WA and was hoping you could advise on these costs, as i would have to transport it back to NSW and need to consider these costs.

Cheers

Richie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342765-r34-gtt/#findComment-5528420
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...