Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Advice .. :S

mindflux

By mindflux,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

mindflux Mentor

mindflux

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

im after a little bit of advice.

Im currently looking at an r32 for sale, and for the record im an s13 boy .. i sold my previous car and did months of research on these cars and watched the market closely to see prices and whats avaliable.

Anyway by mistake i came accross an r32 gtst (type m) for sale which has caught my eye and im very interested in it- it is 5speed has pod filter BOV and exhaust. however i havnt been baying much attention to skylines these last few years as it was more of a "dream" to own a r32 then a reality.

Basicallt this is the first car ive looked at since the sale of my previous, so im hoping im not jumping the gun on this, but i guess im just after some advice.

I am unsure of the prices of 32's and if they vary in price from state to state??? Can anyone shead any light on this for me?

The guy is asking 12,500 for it and it needs some body work as it has hail damage .. however its just a cosmetic thing, and i can fix it at a later date.

I guess i need advice on what to look at when buying an r32, where to check and stuff. the guy told me it was just his daily driver, and appears it is just that and hasnt been drifted and trashed from what i can tell (apart from when it was in japan)

its done 106,000kms and its just had its 100,000k major service with the timing belt (chain?) replaced. hasnt been boosted.

Uhmm.. i guess thats it for now. just need to know what to look at and need to know if the price is good.

also i havn't been up todate with the new import laws for r32s.. does anyone know where its headed? as i dont wanna go spend 13k and find out in 6 months every man and his dog can pic up a complied 32 gtst for 7-8 grand

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/
Share on other sites
Elithrar Rising Star

Elithrar

Posted
Posted

Generally, good-condition R32 GTS-t's go for around $15k. The imports laws are set to change at the end of this year, meaning that it will cost a lot more to import the R32.

And I doubt you'll be able to pick up a complied GTS-t for $7k-$8k; a decent example would be about $10k complied (inc. a service and those 'little things').

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-687291
Share on other sites
Elithrar Rising Star

Elithrar

Posted
Posted

Check for worn shock absorbers (normal for a car that age), oil quality/condition (some people have no idea when it comes to putting the right stuff in), steering (the HICAS could be stuffed), keep your ear out for a 'knocking' sound coming from the engine (improperly tuned), as well as the turbo itself. Those ceramic wheels can get a little iffy when boosted too high.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-687514
Share on other sites
KBNR32 Rising Star

KBNR32

Posted
Posted

i have had climate control problems with my aircon... but as long as the car is well maintained... R32's are a good choice dude...

I have the King of the R32.... 93 vspec... brembo's standard.. :P if u can.. save up for a GTR dude... cause i knew i would always regret getting lower range model..

Good luck.. and work harder to save for the GTR dude

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-688526
Share on other sites
WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

- cold starts can be a problem that many people have found so check that out

- rb20's are realiable and should not be burnign any oil at all. if its not on full when you check the dipstick, question it...

- same for trannie fluid. if it ain't pinkish then question it (of course if he says he hasn't changed fluid in 20,000kms then probably won't be but you may catch him out)

- climate controls can give way (screens go blank) but doesn't happen to everyone. just play around with it a bit to make sure it all works

- make sure there's no water in the boot or spare tyre

- make sure its never been boosted above 14psi as this will cause the stock turbs to sh1t itself

that price seems OK as long as there's not too much body damage... remember that the condition of the trim must match the kms orr something dodgy is going on

you won't regret looking into an rb20!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34281-r32-advice-s/#findComment-688937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...