Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

marc when you're done spewing your paragraph upon paragraph of close minded opinions...

it was an RB20DE+T setup.

high compression motor. still free revving. still higher torque than DET..

so it still had the torque and only had a small conservative setup for high response and not-much lag...

boost came in at about 2500rpm.. but it still had the torque of the DE head...

it was actually a very fast motor. i would never go standard 20 det. that engine was different.

to summarize. you're dumb.

anyway.. back OT. so. gonna get a lexus GS?

rb20DE are still a pathetic motor. even with a turbo bolted on.

I think the worlds quickest drag Skyline is marginally quicker than the best Supra.

skyline may be a pubic hair faster than the supra (0.02 of a second or something like that), but engine wise there are faster 2jz's than rb's. fastest rb powered car i think is in the low 7's. fastest 2jz powered car is mid 6's.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rb20DE are still a pathetic motor. even with a turbo bolted on.

skyline may be a pubic hair faster than the supra (0.02 of a second or something like that), but engine wise there are faster 2jz's than rb's. fastest rb powered car i think is in the low 7's. fastest 2jz powered car is mid 6's.

Sure it's a bigger displacement, but what has the better racing pedigree?

The difference to cars like newish corollas/mazda3s etc is that they feel like the throttle positions are more biassed towards light throttle. I reckon 1/3 throttle in a corolla is really opening the throttle body at 50+%. Cause you barely breathe on the thing and it takes off, but push the pedal further down and bugger all happens.

Sure it's a bigger displacement, but what has the better racing pedigree?

that more comes down to which car has a better racing pedigree? it would be the GTR because it has the advantage of 4wd. engine wise the 2jz is a better engine in it's stock form. it will handle more power in it's stock form thanks to having forged internals.

The difference to cars like newish corollas/mazda3s etc is that they feel like the throttle positions are more biassed towards light throttle. I reckon 1/3 throttle in a corolla is really opening the throttle body at 50+%. Cause you barely breathe on the thing and it takes off, but push the pedal further down and bugger all happens.

+1

With my dad's Corolla 10% throttle is like 50% throttle, so it gives you this false "illusion" that the car has some grunt... mash the paddle all the way to floor & sh*t all happens...

like the time I was on my way to kalgoorlie & was overtaking some 3 trailer semis going about 90km/h, change lanes, floor it 100%, car downshifts to 2nd, eng rev jumps to 5500rpm & makes a horrible buzzing sound, look at my speedo I haven't even gone over 100km/h yet...

+1

With my dad's Corolla 10% throttle is like 50% throttle, so it gives you this false "illusion" that the car has some grunt... mash the paddle all the way to floor & sh*t all happens...

like the time I was on my way to kalgoorlie & was overtaking some 3 trailer semis going about 90km/h, change lanes, floor it 100%, car downshifts to 2nd, eng rev jumps to 5500rpm & makes a horrible buzzing sound, look at my speedo I haven't even gone over 100km/h yet...

it's an auto corolla, what do you expect? lol

Haha, I'm actually off to Sydney this week to pick up another SAU'ers M35....thanks for all your input though!

Good call. They are pure sex on wheels.

that more comes down to which car has a better racing pedigree? it would be the GTR because it has the advantage of 4wd. engine wise the 2jz is a better engine in it's stock form. it will handle more power in it's stock form thanks to having forged internals.

they do NOT have forged internals. I have seen a busted 2j piston and they are cast for sure. They will make 450rwkw before you start to get uncomfortable where as a 26 will be around 400rwkw before you start thinking rebuild. The 2j will likely last longer, after spending some time with the supra club up here we have learned that failures are every bit as common for them as they are for the people in our club. The 2j is more power productive and durable but it isnt by as much as people think.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...