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lol. my mate came around with his commodore ute tonight all pumped up about the new vx engine in it, went for a drive and it just has nothing on the skyline! anyway, later we went to get a feed and took my car, gave it a bit and he just turns to me and say "**** i wish my ute went like yours and justins cars!". lol

hahaha.. yeah, gold..

like when u see at the strip all these guys with their newish XR8's, HSV and all of this and exhausts and powerchips and everything else - $$$ ..and still they get low 14's to high 13's at best.

Best to replace the timing belt, I had to replace mine 10000k after I changed it for the 100000k service after the crank case seal let go spraying oil everywhere and on the belt. Gavin said it was best to change it again and I kinda agree.

Best to replace the timing belt, I had to replace mine 10000k after I changed it for the 100000k service after the crank case seal let go spraying oil everywhere and on the belt.  Gavin said it was best to change it again and I kinda agree.

sh*t that would suck!

..probably a cheap R32.. in auto.. then throw all the drivetrain ..

and get an RB30DET built.. nice bottom end first with forged pistons.. then maybe some minor head work to the RB25 head.. then bolt together hopefully myself and into the car, again, hopefully myself. stick at the back of that an RB25DET gearbox and twin plate i guess. Yes - big asks ! :) If not, somebody else can do the assembly/fitting but i'd prefer to save as much as possible.

hopefully have one of the fastest RWD out there (in QLD anyhow)

sh*t that would suck!

Yeah, scared the crap outer me when I first saw the big oil slick under the car, quickly identified it though as the Gemini has done a similar thing just not quite as spectacular. Gavin was quite impressed by the amount of oil completly covering the underside of the car, and the oil stink from the oil burning on the exhaust.

.. next time i've been thinking a bit more of going more as to what i can afford as i get the cash.. so piece by piece on a fairly cheap car to start.

Rather than having the expensive car to start with and then having to pay for mods ontop of that (what i've found with the 33)

sr20.. yeah.. could be done :)

not a huge fan of the 4's though.. don't like an engine screaming its head off for the power..

hence the rb30det .. and no wanting an rb20det at any cost (revs too high to get power, snap/snap on and off)

anyhow, this work i'm doing in the background is shitting me right up the wall.. better iron out the bugs coz i wanna sleep now :)

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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