Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well you rock up to a test, they see a 3.5"/4" outlet - you think they aint gonna suspect something is up? :devil:

I had the guy get under my car when my 3.5" exhaust pulled as low as it did, just to check for that type of thing.

I had one on my old R33, the difference was amazing. From a headache inducing drone to quieter than my friend's Excel. The benefit is not that it will pass an EPA, its that whenever you see cops, get pulled over, or simply don't want to annoy the neighbours you can mute it instantly from a button on your keyring. It prevents you getting EPAs in the first place, rather than assist you in passing them.

I was so impressed with it I bought another for the Supra, but never wired it up as my current exhaust set up isn't that loud in the low revs.

I've got one and the only reason i got it was i cbf with headaches sometimes from my exhaust /drone as said above by Kez but also i have very good neighbours who all respect each other and id like to be quiet when i come home numerous times in the early morning with my car.. :banana:

EPA's are less of a headache as u get pulled over and they check to see if ur cars loud and they notice its dead quiet. just gives you less headache.

This video here is my old car, and a video I filmed and uploaded personally. Who knew it would hit 170,000 views. I doubt the valve would cause much of a restriction unless you were already pushing the limits with your exhaust diameter.

As for the noise, I reckon the sound fine. I've had a ton of complements on my Supra's exhaust note and it has a Varex. IMO its everything before the muffler that gives an exhaust a nice note or not, depending on your turbo/extractors, mid mufflers, cat, resonator, pipe size, material etc. You can also get different muffler shapes and tips too, next time I think I'll just get the twin tip for an even more stealth appearance.

I know I sound like a bloody Varex salesmen, but to be honest they really are that good. Well worth the money and the main reason it was the first mod I bought for my Supra.

They're great at what they do, you don't buy it to have the best sounding exhaust, you buy it to have the best of both worlds. Personally, I love the note, it's deep down low and up top is a real screamer. I think it's important that the rest of the exhaust is done properly or it will sound tinny and crap, but that's like any exhaust. Run 3 inch mandrel mild steel from the turbo back and you'll be sweet...come listen if you like.

This video here is my old car, and a video I filmed and uploaded personally. Who knew it would hit 170,000 views. I doubt the valve would cause much of a restriction unless you were already pushing the limits with your exhaust diameter.

As for the noise, I reckon the sound fine. I've had a ton of complements on my Supra's exhaust note and it has a Varex. IMO its everything before the muffler that gives an exhaust a nice note or not, depending on your turbo/extractors, mid mufflers, cat, resonator, pipe size, material etc. You can also get different muffler shapes and tips too, next time I think I'll just get the twin tip for an even more stealth appearance.

I know I sound like a bloody Varex salesmen, but to be honest they really are that good. Well worth the money and the main reason it was the first mod I bought for my Supra.

If all the varex mufflers are like that its not worth it since its got a restrictor welded in there thats why the hole is so small. I just removed one out of my cannon. So even when its fully open you still got a restrictor there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...