Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have an R33 S2 GTST manual wit low ks in good condition. always serviced and only mods are a turbo back exhaust, bmc filter in std airbox and an r34 gt-t intercooler.

Right, now the car has a intermittant fault and I cant pick what it is. It used to do the typicall near stall issue where the rpm would drop then bounce up then drop again. I cleaned the aac valve as per the diy thread and it was fixed! great!

After a while it started doing something similar and i noticed a vac drop on my boost gauge, the car did the same thing, felt gutless and smelt of fuel. I found a vac leak which fixed that problem. great!

now the damn thing has come back again but its very intermittant. Somedays it will be completely fine. sometimes it will play up (eg of the fault, slow to the lights push the clutch in and the rpm will drop almost to 0, bounce up high and then slowly settle, when I try and take off it will hesitate and then settle. now whats weird is i cleaned my afm the other day and it went away.) NOTE when it happens the vac reads lower on the gauge but it goes back to normal idle reading when this problem dissappears.

After a while it did it again and the cleaning the afm didnt seem to fix it. i reset the computer and it went back to normal and after a few weeks it happened again...

I dont get it?? Any ideas?

(note. car has new plugs, coils are in good nick, it dosnt misfire, new fuel pump and filter, only run 98 etc etc)

Any ideas appreciated!

Thanks

ok new development. really need some help with this one guys.

The car seems to be worst when its cold. once its at FULL operating temp (say 15mins after starting) it seems to be ok, although the vac is still a touch low.

I also reset the computer last night (discharged for 12hrs) and no change so thats ruled out.

Also when the car starts the fluctuating idle, if i take off and give it a little bit of go (just typical acceleration) the car seems to hesitate and stutter back and forward while accelerating then over a certain rpm will come to life. maybe this can help diagnose it?

Any help is VERY appreciated

thanks

Edited by TUF250

already done, replaced plugs note even 5,000 ago with bcpres with a 0.9 gap (car runs std boost) and coils checked out fine.

remember its an idle hunting problem and the car stutters and pulses as you accelerate then picks up all lost power at about 2500 to 3000. if it was coils it would show up in the higher rpm band from what I have read.

im going to try a replacement afm tonight and see what happens

keep the ides coming.

there seems to be alot of people that have had this issue but no one has posted up their results

Glad u sorted it, I've been following this as I occasionally get the same problem.

Do you also get bad fuel economy? Sometimes I get bout 250-275 from a full tank with mixed city and country toad driving. That's about 14-15 l/100km which isn't good.

Does the afm get used in fuel calculations all the time? My other car has a MAP sensor instead so wondering if the AFM does the same. The other thing might have been O2 sensor but that would give you rough running after warmup if it wasn't working.

yeah i replaced my 02 sensor a while back. got it from bursons for about $100. When the car was carrying on, which didnt happen all the time the economy was bad. but once it settled it seem to go back to normal. afm can dictate mixtures to a degree but when it was playing up you could smell fuel. probably the computer trying to compensate.

you can buy them new from nissan. would be big $$$ though. Look around in the for sale thread. usually some floating around otherwise put an add up in the wanted dection. i did and got heaps of replies

Hi all,

I have an R33 S2 GTST manual wit low ks in good condition. always serviced and only mods are a turbo back exhaust, bmc filter in std airbox and an r34 gt-t intercooler.

Right, now the car has a intermittant fault and I cant pick what it is. It used to do the typicall near stall issue where the rpm would drop then bounce up then drop again. I cleaned the aac valve as per the diy thread and it was fixed! great!

After a while it started doing something similar and i noticed a vac drop on my boost gauge, the car did the same thing, felt gutless and smelt of fuel. I found a vac leak which fixed that problem. great!

now the damn thing has come back again but its very intermittant. Somedays it will be completely fine. sometimes it will play up (eg of the fault, slow to the lights push the clutch in and the rpm will drop almost to 0, bounce up high and then slowly settle, when I try and take off it will hesitate and then settle. now whats weird is i cleaned my afm the other day and it went away.) NOTE when it happens the vac reads lower on the gauge but it goes back to normal idle reading when this problem dissappears.

After a while it did it again and the cleaning the afm didnt seem to fix it. i reset the computer and it went back to normal and after a few weeks it happened again...

I dont get it?? Any ideas?

(note. car has new plugs, coils are in good nick, it dosnt misfire, new fuel pump and filter, only run 98 etc etc)

Any ideas appreciated!

Thanks

Yeah I'm having an issue like this with my '93 R32 GTS-t. I'm running a big stereo as well which, when playing beats, increased the gravity and frequency of the near stall/hesitation on moving off from idle and hesitation in low revs.

With this in mind, I started by replacing the battery as it was proper fu**ed. This improved things 10 fold as the new one has 580 CCA and can handle the stereo as well as the cars electrical needs but I'm still getting the occasional hiccup (which 99% of the time occurs when I stop and pick a friend up, but is only present for a few seconds.

I think AFM will be next - I'm gonna give the z32 a clean and see what happens.

If cleaning the AFM doesn't completely eliminate the problem I'd be testing the ignitor chip and the voltage to the fuel pump.

I have new splitfire coil packs, recently regapped plugs and I have recently replaced fuel filter.

I'll let you know how I get on with mine but this seems to be a pretty common issue with the early RBs (20 and 25).

Your latest problem, does it tend to happen when the car is warm? Ie. seems to run ok when cold, but starts playing up when the car warms up?

What does it mean if it does this while its warm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...