Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The video's + music part is up and running and very good. Tonights job is to clean up the mess of cables and mount the thing.. Id be interested to see how others have mounted them in the V's.. Ill post some pics of the antenna plugs tonight..

When you say v35 factory ones dont pick up here.. Is that due to being crap or different system all together?

I was fairly certain id get some kind of picture with the factory ones since the reception in my area is really good. I could run my house TV's off rabbit ears (with DTV) no problem at all.. This is what makes me think i have hooked it up wrong.. I want to give the factory ones a chance before i order after market ones.. Even thought ill probably end up going down that path..

The factory antenna on the V35 will not work with an aftermarket tuner. They can be made to work on the M35 but on the V35 you need to install aftermarket antenna.

I have a set available if you are interested. Send me a PM if you are interested.

These are the ones supplied with the Asuka units. They can fitted in your bumpers or in the top of the front and back windscreens.

Cheers

Andy

Ok, there are 2 plugs. One has a cable pair both fat and other plug with a pair fat and thin. The furthest plug from unit is the pair with fat and thin. The Fat is an aerial and it should work. Trust me I have it running. The thin one is used for power when the tv selection is made from your console. When switching back to cd or radio the 12v feed is switched off. More than likely it is for gain. Feed it with 12v when your receiver is switched on and that should do you for one good aerial.

The second plug, one with 2 thick cables are also aerials as their connections on the isdbt pcb board have ant3 ant4 printed. I tested one briefly and didn't get anything so I need to test further and trace where they go in the car.

I tried the second plug (with skinny and fat) and this antenna seems to work much better then the two from the other connector.. Although the smaller cable hooking up to 12 volts made no difference at all.. I tried with and without the small cable (fresh channel search each time) and came up with the same channels.. I get abc (1,2 and 3) and channel 10.. and 10 HD

Also it made no difference having the other antenna plugged in or not.. Im getting the best result with the single antenna and not 12 volt to the little cable..

Ill probably start looking at antenna options now..

Edited by projectx

Good to see you got one working anyway. You've got me curious now I'm gona kill the thin wire and see, but I'm certain it's for gain nonetheless.

Can I ask where you tapped 12v from? There should be a small white plug that is sitting unattended about a foot from the jap tuner, it's got a clean 12.

I'll take photos of my second aftermarket antenna and where it's tucked away.

If you plan on adding a rear bumper antenna there's a little grommet slightly left of center on the inside edge of the boot panel. It's used for the numberplate bulb wire.

Good to see you got one working anyway. You've got me curious now I'm gona kill the thin wire and see, but I'm certain it's for gain nonetheless.

Can I ask where you tapped 12v from? There should be a small white plug that is sitting unattended about a foot from the jap tuner, it's got a clean 12.

I'll take photos of my second aftermarket antenna and where it's tucked away.

If you plan on adding a rear bumper antenna there's a little grommet slightly left of center on the inside edge of the boot panel. It's used for the numberplate bulb wire.

I tried 2 sources for the 12v. First the blue cable from the asuka which i think is meant for this purpose. Then just to be sure i took it from the same source that was powering the asuka. (which was the same power that the factory tuner was using)..

I noticed the extra white connector your talking about. I never thought of checking for a power source from it.. Good idea though..

heres some pics of where im at now..

post-76980-1290554886_thumb.jpg

post-76980-1290554900_thumb.jpg

post-76980-1290554909_thumb.jpg

post-76980-1290554921_thumb.jpg

The best position i have found for my back antenna is pushed right up in the left corner of windscreen.

rearant.jpg

From inside sitting in front seats you can barely see it as the angle of the roof lining hides it and its also not visible from outside, my tint is super darker than most though.

rear.jpg

The asuka looks mad. Shame to cover it up.. Before you bolt everything down don't forget to set up your screen bypass.

Use the PCB "cont1 (or cont2) to grounding" method by pete. Ive fed a tiny switch to my armrest and this works the bomb.

Here is one of the great discoveries in bypassing your handbrake and speed sensor.

Edited by Bolaris
The best position i have found for my back antenna is pushed right up in the left corner of windscreen.

From inside sitting in front seats you can barely see it as the angle of the roof lining hides it and its also not visible from outside, my tint is super darker than most though.

The asuka looks mad. Shame to cover it up.. Before you bolt everything down don't forget to set up your screen bypass.

Use the PCB "cont1 (or cont2) to grounding" method by pete. Ive fed a tiny switch to my armrest and this works the bomb.

Here is one of the great discoveries in bypassing your handbrake and speed sensor.

Thanks for the info.. Soon as my antenna's arrive I will try the front and rear (top) windscreens before i do anything with the bumbers.. Hoping to have them by the end of the week.

In regards to the bypass.. I had this done when i got my english conversion by Nigel. He applied a software crack to sort out this issue so i didnt need to wire anything to my hand brake at all or play with the boards in the tuner.. :P

Mine's a 2005 so I gotta wait until English conversion gets created, grrrr.

haha damn!! that would suck.. Hopefully not too far away.. Makes me appreciate even more all the hard work Andy has put in with the russian mob getting things to were they are at now.. then theres the V36, must have even more stuff to figure out..

Edited by projectx

Well last night i received antenna's for the asuka from Andy and installed them straight away. The result is very good. Im receiving every channel in my garage so i suspect it will be even better when driving around. Heres a few pics of the finished product in action.. I found a pretty good spot for the USB extension cord without going to too much effort. Its just above the passenger foot well. The antennas i ended up mounting at the top of the windows.. Since those black dotty things are towards the top, the suction caps dont stick too well so i just tucked the ends of the antennas under the roof lining to stop the falling down.

Im really happy with this system.. It does everything and more that a $1500 double din unit would do for a 1/4 of the price. The only catch is BYO screen required which in this case is an advantage because you can maintain the factory look and dont have to butcher your center console.

post-76980-1291075704_thumb.jpg post-76980-1291075710_thumb.jpg post-76980-1291075716_thumb.jpg post-76980-1291075722_thumb.jpg post-76980-1291075728_thumb.jpg

Thanks all who helped.. Hopefully Leon and Andy can keep us up to date as to what other gear is out there if this really is the last of the Asuka tuners.

Well last night i received antenna's for the asuka from Andy and installed them straight away. The result is very good. Im receiving every channel in my garage so i suspect it will be even better when driving around. Heres a few pics of the finished product in action.. I found a pretty good spot for the USB extension cord without going to too much effort. Its just above the passenger foot well. The antennas i ended up mounting at the top of the windows.. Since those black dotty things are towards the top, the suction caps dont stick too well so i just tucked the ends of the antennas under the roof lining to stop the falling down.

Im really happy with this system.. It does everything and more that a $1500 double din unit would do for a 1/4 of the price. The only catch is BYO screen required which in this case is an advantage because you can maintain the factory look and dont have to butcher your center console.

Thanks all who helped.. Hopefully Leon and Andy can keep us up to date as to what other gear is out there if this really is the last of the Asuka tuners.

Looks great Tom. You will enjoy this set up I am sure.

Cheers

Andy

Looks great Tom. You will enjoy this set up I am sure.

Cheers

Andy

thanks mate..

Ive just driven to work and didnt have a single cut out on channel 7 which was previously one of the channels i couldnt even get a picture :ph34r:

  • 11 months later...

The factory antenna on the V35 will not work with an aftermarket tuner. They can be made to work on the M35 but on the V35 you need to install aftermarket antenna. These are the ones supplied with the Asuka units. CheersAndy

Sorry to revive an old thread but looking at doing this for my PM35 and it sounds as if mine has the same square plugs as the V35 for the aerials. I recently opened mine up and saw printed on the circuit board "ANT1, ANT2, ANT3, ANT4". So andy, my questions is if this is still relevant to the current asuka tuners, or was this for the previous model tuners? Regardless I s'pose the new tuners are still coming with aerials I beleive. (I have taken some photo's of the inside of the box if anyone is interested I can upload if you wish.)

Hi Guys,I contacted Asuka in Tawain and they do distribute their products under the name of Zylux. Has anyone heard of them?CheersLee

I have also heard of them, they are also the distributor for Daewoo Car security products, (remotes & transponders) if its still of any interest to anyone.

Sorry to revive an old thread but looking at doing this for my PM35 and it sounds as if mine has the same square plugs as the V35 for the aerials. I recently opened mine up and saw printed on the circuit board "ANT1, ANT2, ANT3, ANT4". So andy, my questions is if this is still relevant to the current asuka tuners, or was this for the previous model tuners? Regardless I s'pose the new tuners are still coming with aerials I beleive. (I have taken some photo's of the inside of the box if anyone is interested I can upload if you wish.)

Hi Frank, the new tuners come with aerials (Asuka's didn't) but you shouldn't need them if your car has JDM TV. Since you're in SA, you could contact Brad (Ducati02) because I think he has at least one of my tuners available ATM. If not, get back to me & I can send you one if you want.

Cheers, Leon.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...