Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys..

i have an r33 s1 gtst with the rb25det in it.. the car has an apexi n1 exhaust, frontmount cooler done by plazmaman, splitfire coil packs and an apexi avcr which just died (havnt worked out why yet but happened after the car got these next problems).. it has recently developed a problem out of nowhere and is running really rich i think (black crap all ova back of the car that it never used to get) but it will not boost properly, it hesitates badly or just cuts out altogether untill i let my foot back off the gas and is slowly getting worse, now it is gettin hard to drive off boost and its even starting to idle funny..

can anyone please help i dnt want to pay a performance shop if i can help it..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344155-r33-rb25det-running-extremely-bad/
Share on other sites

thats what i thought also but can seem to visually find any loose piping or worn silicone joins or clamps, it does get up on boost sometimes but its very hard to get it there.. may have a try at presurising it tomos and see how that goes..

just took it for a drive then and after i try give it a bit of gas and back off throttle while getting on the clutch it wants to stall and sometimes does stall.. and its still idleing very rough

any other ideas anyone

once pressurized, spray some carby cleaner or soapy water on the joints

if your running an atmo bov, make sure that the return is still blanked off, could have come loose or popped out

ok so i pressurised the pipe work and no leaks.. disconnected all the avcr gear and its a bit better n standard boost but is still really laggy!!

any other help would be great tryin to fix it all up be4 my sisters formal next week

few years back mine started running rough under decel and accel and black soot over the ass end but ran sweet when cruising. ended up being a cracked CAS bracket and timing was out.

few years back mine started running rough under decel and accel and black soot over the ass end but ran sweet when cruising. ended up being a cracked CAS bracket and timing was out.

+ 1

had a broken cas bracket on my 32

how much pressure did you put in the pipng?

other possibility is the AFM is dodgy

hey mate i just held it on for like a min and its a big compressor that runs my whole shop i assume the pressure was really high tho..

i swapped the coolant temp sensor and it seems to be running fine all the way through the revs @ 5psi but as soon as i switch it to 9psi it boosts up and then cuts just as the guage hits 9psi.. any chance it may be a dodgy stock fuel pressure regulator or even a tired fuel pump

CAS is on the front of the motor. round thing with 3 10mm bolts holding it on that when loosened allow you to turn it sideways a little bit (to adjust the timing). has a plug with a few wires in it coming out the side.

could possibly be a fuel pressure issue, but i don't really think so

going to ask a stupid question, but you aren't using the stock gauge as your only boost gauge are you? it you are then that is the reason why you are having issues. it doesn't read in PSI, so what you think is 9psi is a buttload higher. about 18psi in fact, and any issues you are having is the ECU going into it's protection mode.

CAS is on the front of the motor. round thing with 3 10mm bolts holding it on that when loosened allow you to turn it sideways a little bit (to adjust the timing). has a plug with a few wires in it coming out the side.

could possibly be a fuel pressure issue, but i don't really think so

going to ask a stupid question, but you aren't using the stock gauge as your only boost gauge are you? it you are then that is the reason why you are having issues. it doesn't read in PSI, so what you think is 9psi is a buttload higher. about 18psi in fact, and any issues you are having is the ECU going into it's protection mode.

na mate using an aftermarket guage one on the dash is disconnected.. and the cas appears to be fine.. i am starting to stress out cos i cant figure it out lol and being on the coast i dont know what shop i can take it too.. i did take my cars to the throttle shop at gosford but they are gone now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...