Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regrettably I offer for sale my GTR. The car is likely well known to SAU members as "Bakes" black GTR.

I purchased this amazing machine off Bakes in April this year after being smitten on its presentation/setup/condition/history and low kms. I have enjoyed every minute of my ownership but family/business circumstances have conspired against my longterm ownership :laugh:

As the topic description suggests, it is a 1999 Black BNR34 GTR V Spec imported by Bakes in '08 with a HKS exhaust and about 26K on the clock. He opened his wallet and intelligently setup the car to show off its potential and maintained its near showroom condition. He spent 20K on parts/labour/tuning to build a stunning car.

Mods (list copy pasted from Bakes FS thread as nothing has changed)

Engine/Engine Bay/Clutch

* OS Giken Cam Gears

* Garrett 2860-5 Turbos

* HKS SPL Hard piping

* HKS Power Flow Pods

* Nismo Fuel Pump

* Turbosmart Fuel Regulator

* Hypertune Fuel Rail

* Siemens 610cc Injectors

* Splitfire Coilpacks

* HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

* Vipec V44 ECU

* Tech Edge O2 Controller

* Trust Clear Cam Cover

* Hi Octane Oil Catch Can Kit

* Greddy Air Diversion Plate

* HKS Billet Oil Cap, HKS Raidator Cap

* Nismo Twin Plate Clutch

* Greddy Strut Brace

Exhaust

* HKS Front pipe 3.5 Inch

* Metal Cat 3.5 Inch

* HKS Reap Pipe 3.5 Inch

* HKS Hi Power Muffler

Brakes/Suspension/Wheels/Tyres

* Project MU Brake Pads Front/Rear

* Tein Monoflex Coliovers

* Greddy Strut Brace

* Work Meister S1 19x10 +10 Wheels. 93mm Dish Front Wheels. 110mm Dish rear Wheels

* Work Wheel nuts

* Dunlop Direzza DZ101 Tyres

Exterior

* Nismo copy side skirts, rear pods

* Nismo clear Indicators

Interior

* Nismo Dash

* JVC Head Deck

* Window Tints Doors

* Black Widow Alarm

Since ownership I have installed some Genuine Nissan V Spec II aluminium pedals and changed the oil with a fresh batch of Motul 300V Chrono and Filter a month ago. It has been constantly stared at, gently caressed and regularly waxed within an inch of its life and its exterior and interior condition can only be described as immaculate. The engine has never missed a beat, the gearbox is slick, the clutch is sharp and when the turbines spool - it goes like a stuck pig. I have never tracked the car in my ownership.

It will come with NSW rego, plates GDZ 34V (costing $90/year renewal in NSW)

Price: $55K with 42K kms on the odometer

Contact - preferably after 7 when the kids are in bed

0412801165

[email protected]

The car is located in Coffs Harbour, but km's shouldn't deter a genuine buyer - the car is that good >_< Happy to negotiate paying the airfare for the buyer

GTRsale4.jpg

Engine2.jpg

GTRsale2.jpg

GTRsale1.jpg

Interior.jpg

Boot.jpg

DSC_0274.jpg

DSC_0273.jpg

Edited by Gojira
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344526-fs-1999-nissan-bnr34-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

beautiful.

interested in swaps for one lung ( non smoker ) and one kidney ( social drinker )?

Could do with an extra lung! Might take you up on that offer if you could give me your liver, mines a bit fragile :)

If I could live without my liver it would happen :laugh:

looks damn near perfect in the photos.

sorry to hear business decisions are forcing you to sell it.

I had a very tidy GTR 33 for 5 years until it was stolen a few years ago and I made a very foolish promise to my wife that after we built our new house she would get her car updated before I get another toy.

been in the house for 6 months.

might get her drunk tonight.

surely she doesn't NEED a new car just yet.

does the car have aftermarket cams?

what sort of power is it producing atw?

cheers.

If I could live without my liver it would happen ;)

looks damn near perfect in the photos.

sorry to hear business decisions are forcing you to sell it.

I had a very tidy GTR 33 for 5 years until it was stolen a few years ago and I made a very foolish promise to my wife that after we built our new house she would get her car updated before I get another toy.

been in the house for 6 months.

might get her drunk tonight.

surely she doesn't NEED a new car just yet.

does the car have aftermarket cams?

what sort of power is it producing atw?

cheers.

LOL about the getting the wife drunk bit. Good technique that one cheers.gif

Cams are standard, all setup for some new ones to liberate a bit more poke - seriously considered it but was scared I'd get on the slippery slope of neverending engine mods and an early divorce...

The HKS EVC has 2 switchable in-car maps, 1.2 Bar at 260kwatw and 1.4 Bar with 300kwatw. Inherited a few dyno graphs that show this. Takes a little while to spool up, but coming from an STi, I am used to being in the right gear when planning overtaking etc.

yeah I suppose it would come on better with some cams but then you'd probably need bigger injectors and.... away it goe$. bloody coppers down your way would be all over it too i'd imagine.

I've already dragged the wife in to show her my drool marks on the monitor. she understands my desire BUT *........... ( * insert some words that she said that I totally ignored and can not remember ).

Found a pic prior to engine bay mods, shows how clean the car must have been when imported in '08 and supports a probable genuine odometer reading of 42k

post-a170225-002a.jpg

Also a dyno graph after engine work complete

mostrecentresult.jpg

Edited by Gojira
Engine2.jpg

nice GTR,

can i just confirm something i see on almost every modded gtr, them 2 hoses that connect from the top of the engine, to the bottom left of the engine bay,

thats the oil catch can? or some sort of engine cooling?

those two hoses are the breather hoses to the catch can.

42k mileage on current nismo odometer PLUS approx 20k on nissan original odometer as per previous post from past owner when he had it for sale with 37k on it.

so you've only done about 5k in the car since you've owned it?

I can believe that, since in the 5 years of ownership of my 33 I only put 16000 kms on it driving it once a fortnight to golf and rarely on the weekends ( wifey didn't like the coilovers or acceleration ).

one of the cleanest GTR's I've seen.

do want.

Edited by OVA 300

+1

i would buy that in a second. I'm still indecisive on letting my R34 go.. but i want a GTR so bad.. lol but I'm being tempted by the dark side of the V8's :|

One of the cleanest R34 GTR's ive ever seen. goodluck with sale :/

Thanks for the kind words, registration extended 12 months as of today

Spares that go with the car include original suspension/ECU/cam cover/cam gears/twin turbo pipe/strut bar/fuel rail/orange blinkers/coil packs/oil and radiator caps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...