Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

My skyline is playing up again and after trawling this site and google i can't find an answer which is unusual. So, awhile back i posted a read about my car not making full power on WOT and it was making the most power (half what it should) at half throttle. I got that problem fixed and it turned out to be a shagged fuel pump, It's now got a Bosch 040 and it had so much more power.

In RWD it would put me back in the seat and felt like ~170+kw...It hit what i think is R&R at 6500rpm in 2nd, 5500 in 3rd and 4500 in 4th etc. Basically it would hit this point (when full throttle) and cut power and throw you forward. Thats all fine because i put that down to needing a tune. Its got an RB25 turbo on an RB20DET with 10psi. Stock ECU.

Problem:

The car only gets driven (and shortly) every 2 weeks or so... last week i took it for a spin and say when your in 2nd gear and hit full throttle, its normal off boost, then when it hits full boost it feels the same... it's holding back like the brakes are on. It hits like 5200rpm and power comes back and it launches until it hits the previously mentioned R&R. Along with this new problem it also missfires a little when you change gear and hit the accelerator again.

Mods include, Pod filter, FMIC, RB25 turbo, Bosch 040 fuel pump, BCPR7ES 0.8mm plugs, all filters have been replaced. Sorry for the long post but hey, the more history and back story the easier it is to diagnose the problem.

I might also add (completely unrelated) i replaced the oil pressure sensor this arvo and holy hell is that a mission!!! I had the old sensor unplugged but still screwed in for awhile, would that cause an oil leak? Engine is leaking a fair bit of oil only recently somewhere from that side of the engine.

Hopefully someone can help ;) I love my skyline when it works....

Edited by sholm23
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344644-good-ol-skyline-bad-power-delivery/
Share on other sites

Wired up the fuel pump properly this morning. Makes a nice whirring sound to 14V+.. Problem is still there.

Car has ZERO power most of the time, came round a corner in 2nd gear (3000rpm) to get up a light hill and it just couldn't. Power seems to be all over the place but only works ok (when it does) at higher RPM. Just putting a long in 2nd/3rd, 3000 ish rpm, put your foot to the floor, it gets full boost and it might as well be tied to a post in 6th gear.

It then decides to go and chucks you way back in the seat until R&R, change gear and theres a bit of missfiring and stuttering as it decides what to do and then maybe some power for a brief moment.

I had a look at one of the spark plugs and its BLACK as, so i think it's what i originally thought, bad coil packs? I could change spark plugs but i've tried 4 sets in the last 2 months so i rather not. Plugs are BCPR7ES, could probably go with 6's but i had them before when it did work and they started to melt.

So, Fuel shouldn't be a problem, New filter, Bosch 040 with correct voltage. Boost should be ok too as the guage (aftermarket) is reading 10psi with an RB25 turbo. Boost comes on when it should etc. Ignition is where i think it's falling apart. Plugs are (as above) black like it's not burning the fuel but there were ok before. Coil packs are 21years old and there's miss firing sometimes... Will any Ebay "performance coils" that fit, work? I know they probably won't last as long as split fires, but will the do the job?

Please help!! Any recommendations of what to do next will help, I simply don't have the coin to throw at it to replace everything and i need it running before Christmas.

Edited by sholm23

I'm in Brisbane. Where would be the best place to get NIStune installed and dynoed? I'm going to go the full tune sooner rather then later.

I was holding off getting it done because if i have problems with my car i don't want to be doubling up on dyno hours but i think getting it installed and the AFR's checked out at a minimum would be good.

Starting to think hitting R&R too often and not enough long km's has built up too much unburnt fuel on the plugs. Which would explain all of above. Might clean my plugs and see if that's it. I hope it is because after NIStune i should be a proud 180kw GTS-4 owner :blink:

Any theories? Also all dyno tuners feel free to PM me regarding NIStune or a similar ECU options for a basic tune.

Wish i could edit the title to something more appropriate... guess that comes at a higher post count.

Yeh i'll shoot off an Email to NIStune themselves and a few tuning shops...

Any recommendations to who does quality work in Brisbane? Surely there's got to be a Nissan specific tuner. Mercury motor sports springs to mind?

Edited by sholm23

FIXED!!!!!!!!!

Put in some Yellow jackets this afternoon and cleaned up the (really rich looking) spark plugs. Car now boosts perfectly all the way upto an unusual non-existent limiter. NO R&R on 10psi... Feels good too, a tiny bit of hesitation in the mid range but that would most likely be the stock tune+bigger turbo.

Car has more then enough power for me in 2WD and 4WD to start out on and from here its more boost + Tune at Mercury Motorsports.

Also "Performance wise" are terrific, I bought the coil packs Saturday and they arrived here today, that's overnight from NSW!! Good price too.. definitely recommended.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...