Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone fitted an LSD on this model car .. can we use complete diff from a different car that just bolt in .. open diff is sucks

3.3 from a auto 350z is probably what i will end up using think they are lsd.

Taller so might get better mileage aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5558340
Share on other sites

3.3 from a auto 350z is probably what i will end up using think they are lsd.

Taller so might get better mileage aswell.

Hi Austin, Once you have done this , please post the results and are you sure that the 350z diff housing & mounting is the same as the gt-8 ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5559328
Share on other sites

youll need to have your speedo re-calibrated if you do this

Im not overly concerned about that.... i own a radar detector and cruise around at 130kph everywhere anyway.

Also my car is running 265/35/18 on the rear this is probably like nearly 30mm under size diameter wize compared to stock. I havent looked at the calculations..... could be intresting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5560690
Share on other sites

Im not overly concerned about that.... i own a radar detector and cruise around at 130kph everywhere anyway.

Also my car is running 265/35/18 on the rear this is probably like nearly 30mm under size diameter wize compared to stock. I havent looked at the calculations..... could be intresting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5560692
Share on other sites

The factory LSDs (viscous) are not very good anyway. Probably an improvement over a truely open diff, but i'm not sure if its worth your time and effort.

You might as well grab something a bit more serious.

On that note, I have a second hand 2-way (centre only) kicking around somewhere if anyone wants it. To suit 6 speed manual. Not sure if it can be adapted to the auto or not. $400 posted. Not very street friendly but absolutely transformed the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5560766
Share on other sites

The factory LSDs (viscous) are not very good anyway. Probably an improvement over a truely open diff, but i'm not sure if its worth your time and effort.

You might as well grab something a bit more serious.

On that note, I have a second hand 2-way (centre only) kicking around somewhere if anyone wants it. To suit 6 speed manual. Not sure if it can be adapted to the auto or not. $400 posted. Not very street friendly but absolutely transformed the car.

I have a nismo rear 2 way nismo centre and nismo 1.5way in my PULSAR GTIR no way in hell am i putting one of those noisy clunky pos in my GT8 the stock viscous is perfectly fine for my driving with this car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5560786
Share on other sites

I personally do not think that there is much difference between the stock open diff and the stock viscous diff. The latter is obviously preferrable but I wouldn't bother going to the effort of fitting one.

Anyhow. I agree that a nismo unit (or similar) isnt for everyone, hence why I had mine removed.

The carbonetics 1.5 way seems nice. Friendly enough for the street. Supposedly you need to drop the oil every 5,000 kms though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5560868
Share on other sites

I ordered a Quaife diff close to 2 months ago, should be here soonish

Diff of choice if you want a proper LSD that wont clunk/chatter for your daily drive

also it wont ware out because quaife diffs dont use clutch plates

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344870-v35-gt-8-lsd/#findComment-5561162
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...