Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently discovered that a stock NA Supra is as fast as a stock CV8 VZ Monaro when accelerating from 0-100*. Which probably isn't saying anything great for the Supra, but rather how slow the Monaro is. Still the fact a P plate legal car can keep up with a V8 Sports coupe with nearly double the displacement is saying something.

Personally though if I had the choice I'd take the Autech S15 any day. It has decent power, a nice interior and the best chassis of all three.

* Yes I'm aware if the sprint continued on to 150kph the Monaro would probably be leagues in front, or if you started modding both the Monaro would pull away significantly.

Sources:

http://www.aaa.asn.au/roadtests/reports/245.pdf

http://www.importforums.com/carsinfo.htm

Who ever did that road test for NRMA must have missed a gear.

Ive seen bog stock (and I mean bog stock) 02 Monaros...(the 225kw ones) run 14.0 at 98mph at willowbank

and there is no way a NA supra with 168kws will run 14.7 that is r33 gtst factory times and they had more power, more torque and were lighter, on basically the same size tyre.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Who ever did that road test for NRMA must have missed a gear.

Ive seen bog stock (and I mean bog stock) 02 Monaros...(the 225kw ones) run 14.0 at 98mph at willowbank

and there is no way a NA supra with 168kws will run 14.7 that is r33 gtst factory times and they had more power, more torque and were lighter, on basically the same size tyre.

I just looked up a couple more sources. 6.6-6.8s seems to be the go for a CV8 VZ Monaro 0-100, and I know 6.7 is about right for a Supra because I've seen that number numerous times having done lots of research on them, and the fact my car would easily do it.

Also it claims 14.9 is the 1/4 for an SZ Supra, which would be about right for a brand new motor as most (on the forums) do it in low 15's.

I just looked up a couple more sources. 6.6-6.8s seems to be the go for a CV8 VZ Monaro 0-100, and I know 6.7 is about right for a Supra because I've seen that number numerous times having done lots of research on them, and the fact my car would easily do it.

Also it claims 14.9 is the 1/4 for an SZ Supra, which would be about right for a brand new motor as most (on the forums) do it in low 15's.

Just because it says so on the internet, doesnt make it true, Like I said, Ive seen many Cv8's run 14.0 and around 14.2 in auto form.

Who ever did that road test for NRMA must have missed a gear.

Ive seen bog stock (and I mean bog stock) 02 Monaros...(the 225kw ones) run 14.0 at 98mph at willowbank

and there is no way a NA supra with 168kws will run 14.7 that is r33 gtst factory times and they had more power, more torque and were lighter, on basically the same size tyre.

i dunno about that. 147kw v6 magna with just a cat back exhaust will run high 14's. i got 14.8 out of mine. quickest i've seen with full exhaust is 14.4

Holy f dude, how times have you brought up your "missus's n15 SSS pulsar" ?? I have seen you post that in almost every thread about buying cars or racing cars and in almost every N/A forum thread lol....

Well hey at least he hasn't mentioned that 3.5 Magna with the cat b...

i dunno about that. 147kw v6 magna with just a cat back exhaust will run high 14's. i got 14.8 out of mine. quickest i've seen with full exhaust is 14.4

Damnit!

Valid points though.. People do need to realise that if it's P plate legal, it's P plate legal for a reason, and that reason is that it's slow.

i dunno about that. 147kw v6 magna with just a cat back exhaust will run high 14's. i got 14.8 out of mine. quickest i've seen with full exhaust is 14.4

about time someone mentioned the magna

good luck trying to beat a 3.5l awd off the line and you wont ever get any cop hassels

Well hey at least he hasn't mentioned that 3.5 Magna with the cat b...

Damnit!

Valid points though.. People do need to realise that if it's P plate legal, it's P plate legal for a reason, and that reason is that it's slow.

baaaaaaaaaaaahahahaham was wondering who would make the first comment in response to me saying something about a magna.

about time someone mentioned the magna

good luck trying to beat a 3.5l awd off the line and you wont ever get any cop hassels

except a rev limiter clutch dump in 1st nearly stalls the car.

pretty funny to watch

But an AWD magna is going to be automatic, which is fail. The FWD ones are lighter and faster anyway, and I too have seen N/A Magna’s pull over 140kW at the wheels and run mid 14 second 1/4's with basic mods (intake/exhaust) (talking the 3.5L manual).

However I am a massive hater of FWD, so thats the end of anything condoning it from me ;).

Also as for the V8 argument, too many people have the mindset "oh its a V8 its going to be fast". They are not, they are hopeless off the line. Auto/Manual, LS1/LS2, SV8, SS, Sedan, Ute and the older Monaro’s are all useless. As are most XR8 utes and sedans, I'm talking new cars in stock or basic (exhaust) form.

I've driven them all and they are crap, usually incredibly heavy and have stupidly tall gearing. The LS1 is the worst, bogs down heavy then hits the limiter just as it starts to wind up, they are no good, the V6 versions of most falcadores beat them to 80-100kmph "at the lights", or AT LEAST don’t have enough to pull away before the "drag lane" ends.

Should probably wear a flame suit, but I'm sorry kids, that is how it is. I'm not an 8 hater, and with some shorter gearing, a retune and an incredibly aggressive launch in a manual, they do haul ass, but standard they are a big disappointment. They do manage a good burnout though, until the diff lets go...

The N/A supra would walk away from most falcadore 8's in stock form 0-100 and is definitely what you should get if your only care is the traffic light grand prix, and just raw accel. They also have a pretty decent delivery (in manual form) so are bearable to drive (nice pull up top).

However, I would still go the S15.

Edited by SKiT_R31

hmm you should also mention that magnas are built like and drive like shit too, as well as looking like something a 50 year old accountant might consider "sporty"

I dunno, my cammed 5 litre was fairly quick off the line compared to any RB20DET I put it up against, top end was a different story though lol

I can actually shed light on the original question here rather than talking about my girlfriends shitty pulsar sss or my magna with an exhaust system which is of NO HELP in ANY of these threads..

I have driven all 3 of those cars, my friend had a R34 2.5 NA manual (i have a R33 2.5 NA manual - pretty much the same), my flat mate has an s15 Autech, and i have driven/been in a NA supra about 6 times.

The fastest was the autech for sure, maybe not in numbers but it felt the fastest for sure, pulled MUCH harder. The R33 and R34 NA are just slow as hell, whereas the supra is a heavy beast but has got power, although not the type of power you want to go back to time and time again - it's pretty timid.

In terms of modding, the autech is tuned from factory and shouldn't need to be touched. The Supra and Skyline respond pretty well to intake/exhausts as a starting point but i wouldn't bother to go much further.

I'd say all 3 of those cars are quite reliable in their own right.

My advice would be to get something average like a RB20DE r32 coupe until you are off your P's, becuase those 3 cars mentioned above are so expensive for what they are. If you would like to know more about how each of those cars drive you can PM me, i can say out of the 10 cars i have owned since i started driving 5 years ago, the turbos (and my old Soarer V8) are the only cars i miss and crave to drive.

Edited by rorz

Pick the cr you like the best...not like you drive it everywhere at WOT and 7k rpm.....for street duties the Supra gets my vote simple because of the bigger motor, same brakes as the turbo model etc...so later, just throw a GT42 at it and run 9's

Pick the cr you like the best...not like you drive it everywhere at WOT and 7k rpm.....for street duties the Supra gets my vote simple because of the bigger motor, same brakes as the turbo model etc...so later, just throw a GT42 at it and run 9's

Might need a bit more work than that. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...