Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

One of my counter weights have come loose in my steer wheel. Which Im guessing is because of the vibrations my 2way gives out. So I am on the hunt for a T50H socket to take off my steering to mount this counter weight back again. But so far no luck at the normal tool outlets. Can anyone recommend any ?

I have tried:

Supercheap

Repco

All Tools

Auto 1

I live SOR so I would prefer somewhere in that area as I work full time office hours so its hard for me to get anywhere too far.

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345111-t50h-socket-12-drive/
Share on other sites

pal - its a torx-head bolt im pretty sure

try coventry's i know they do a CGL kit which comes with a t50 bit. my snap-on kit only goes up to t40, and i bought a massive SP Tools kit with heaps of 1/4drive bits and the largest is t40 too.....

edit: also forgot to add the CGL kit are the TxxH kits - so they come with the little security hole in the middle (and my snap-on ones dont! how gay is that haha)

Edited by jimmys-33T

Cheers Jimmy,

Any luck on finding just the individual socket? I have a full set of TXX (the socket without the hole) so I dont really need another full set of exactly the same but with a hole. Bit of a pain if I have to buy the full set.

Ill keep looking for this week, if no luck I guess I will have to buy the whole set! I would get pissed off at my 2way from the vibrations but I love it too much haha....

Thanks anyway Pal. Looks like I will have to buy the set! ... Will now everyone knows where they can most likely borrow one next time they need it.

Set for Kingchrome is 49 dollars =(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...