Jump to content
SAU Community

What Aftermarket Parts For 200awkw?

SHETLANDER

By SHETLANDER,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

SHETLANDER Collaborator

SHETLANDER

Posted
Posted

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345690-what-aftermarket-parts-for-200awkw/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?
More than you might think! How much money do you want to spend?

Firstly an 80mm (three inch) exhaust from the turbo back - I prefer the split dump over the bellmouth.

Second an upgraded intercooler. A series 2 or GTT smic will do it but if you think you are going to want more power later you might as well get a return pipe front mount.

Thirdly to make a genuine 200awkw with an automatic awd Stagea you will need a better turbo -e.g. your stocker rebuilt by Hypergear or GCG

The most difficult part with an S1 is finding a way to tune it. I would suggest a Greddy E-manage.

A decent electronic boost controller would be nice .

This should get you 200 -220awkw

And finally you should probably invest in a new fuel pump (e.g. Walbro) as although the stocker may do it is quite old by now and you don't want to be caught out when it packs up.

Also change your brake fluid to say Motul RBF600 get some decent pads and a 24mm solid rear sway bar!

(I'm assuming you already have some decent tyres)

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
The above post is spot on

Once you start spending money the power goal of a SAFE 200awkw is the same for 250awkw

Set your goal higher, because 200awkw is not enough

hahaha niether is 250kw hey darrin :/ i also agree with kiwi except i wouldn't bother with a S2/R34 side mount intercooler, i don't think they are as good as some people say they are. i noticed heaps of heat soak with mine after a bit of spirited driving. go for a front mount, you can get them in different sizes so you will easily find something that fits the nose of a stagea. you can also get them in turnflow style so all the pipes meet up with your stock ones. the only other thing i'd add to what has already been said is get the auto looked at, a shift kit is a must when running more than stock power.

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry Shetlander to steal a bit of your post,but it's a good chance to ask...

So,you can get 200 awkw on stock injectors and pump?(apart for the issue of the age of the last)What about Z32 AFM,is it necesary ?or the stock could be ok ,let's say up to 220?

Edited by southern_tango
d1_drifter Community Regular

d1_drifter

Posted
Posted

Freddy, 220-230kw is the max (safety wise) that you will get out of the stock AFM and injectors. Of course, there will be slight variances as per usual with different dyno's. Pushing injector duty cycle % combined with tuning past the AFM is not what you really want.

It would also be a good idea to replace your fuel pump if you're thinking about mods. The stocker would be a bit tired after over a decade of use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...