Jump to content
SAU Community

What Aftermarket Parts For 200awkw?


SHETLANDER
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 1997 series 1 Stagea RS4. i have been using the search buttons but cant see anything recent for tuning a series 1 but plenty for a series 2. i have the standard car with just a HKS panel filter (not installed yet) and am wanting to get the power up to around 200 awkw and was wondering what parts would do the job?
More than you might think! How much money do you want to spend?

Firstly an 80mm (three inch) exhaust from the turbo back - I prefer the split dump over the bellmouth.

Second an upgraded intercooler. A series 2 or GTT smic will do it but if you think you are going to want more power later you might as well get a return pipe front mount.

Thirdly to make a genuine 200awkw with an automatic awd Stagea you will need a better turbo -e.g. your stocker rebuilt by Hypergear or GCG

The most difficult part with an S1 is finding a way to tune it. I would suggest a Greddy E-manage.

A decent electronic boost controller would be nice .

This should get you 200 -220awkw

And finally you should probably invest in a new fuel pump (e.g. Walbro) as although the stocker may do it is quite old by now and you don't want to be caught out when it packs up.

Also change your brake fluid to say Motul RBF600 get some decent pads and a 24mm solid rear sway bar!

(I'm assuming you already have some decent tyres)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The above post is spot on

Once you start spending money the power goal of a SAFE 200awkw is the same for 250awkw

Set your goal higher, because 200awkw is not enough

hahaha niether is 250kw hey darrin :/ i also agree with kiwi except i wouldn't bother with a S2/R34 side mount intercooler, i don't think they are as good as some people say they are. i noticed heaps of heat soak with mine after a bit of spirited driving. go for a front mount, you can get them in different sizes so you will easily find something that fits the nose of a stagea. you can also get them in turnflow style so all the pipes meet up with your stock ones. the only other thing i'd add to what has already been said is get the auto looked at, a shift kit is a must when running more than stock power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Shetlander to steal a bit of your post,but it's a good chance to ask...

So,you can get 200 awkw on stock injectors and pump?(apart for the issue of the age of the last)What about Z32 AFM,is it necesary ?or the stock could be ok ,let's say up to 220?

Edited by southern_tango
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Freddy, 220-230kw is the max (safety wise) that you will get out of the stock AFM and injectors. Of course, there will be slight variances as per usual with different dyno's. Pushing injector duty cycle % combined with tuning past the AFM is not what you really want.

It would also be a good idea to replace your fuel pump if you're thinking about mods. The stocker would be a bit tired after over a decade of use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And yes would be going to tomei Japan for sure as it’s closer to me … 
    • Yeah I heard the same. Might be hard to order one. But then I guess can go to hks or go to a more expensive n1 block with tomei. Guess will jump the hurdle once I get there next upgrade around. I can’t get work done in the states as the lead time will take for ever on top of shipping to Hong Kong. 
    • https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/en-us/products/nissan-rb26-cast-blocks This is the solution I was thinking of. I would stay away from Tomei USA, their quality is a question mark to me. If you want an engine machined in the US contact Club DSPORT: https://clubdsport.com/ Tomei JP is probably fine but I recall they stopped doing pre-assembled short or long blocks. In general it's pretty tough to get any kind of RB26 block at the moment with Nissan so severely backordered.
    • PAR specifically offers stock ratios in their gearset and you could do whatever ratios are physically possible supposedly for no extra cost. I agree 6 ratios is better than 5, the factory 2nd gear is equivalent to the Getrag 2nd gear if you account for the differing final drive ratio though. The Getrag 3rd gear with a 3.916 final drive is equivalent to a 1.6 2nd gear in the FS5R30A. I'm about to swap the transmission out on my car, I'm tempted to send the one I have now out for rebuild with the standard "cross ratio" gearsets out there to see if it really makes such a big difference the next time I pull the transmission.
    • This is what I was looking at next:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/engines/tomei/tomei-rb26-28l-short-block-assemblies-p-45479.html as we can’t bore the cylinders out in hk so better just buy the whole lot in one and install then retune. Everyone saying the weak link are the bolts holding the rods together. I already did valve springs, arp head bolts, hks racing coils, nismo fuel pumps and pressure regulators, injectors etc for the top of the engine. 
×
×
  • Create New...