Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I reckon your head requires a bleed mate. This is what happens when boys buy stageas. lol

heh Stinky ill stick commodore pursuit rims on it and put in half a king spring - for that ulehness. :banana:

yeah yeah.. as i said i wasnt driving.

and i drive quite safely tyvm

anyway as goldzilla said.. no excuses

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5572859
Share on other sites

hehe should i be scared you actually know this dale ? :banana:

The amount of useless information I've collected, you would not believe...

Case in point; the active collection of useless information is known as "Spermology"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5572906
Share on other sites

Im not against skids, I have done many. My only issues are 1. If you need to use the brake to do a skid go buy more bolt ons(yes I realize that's what your doing) 2. Skid vids on forum = poo

Might I add:

3. DON'T do it on a public road, no matter where it is!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574383
Share on other sites

lilcrash if you cant brake boost .. you evidently dont know how to drive.. and secondly .. let me see you control a doughie in barely 2 lanes in 2nd gear. and keep it on the road. again.. this is rich coming from someone who was promoting getting an insurance job on his car to save money...

and PM MAD - youre the only volvo driver you idiot.. youve got a non turbo rx... so shut the f**k up you douchebag.

so many haters ... seriously go get f**ked hey.. i dont give a f**k about your shitfulll attitude.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574634
Share on other sites

lilcrash if you cant brake boost .. you evidently dont know how to drive.. and secondly .. let me see you control a doughie in barely 2 lanes in 2nd gear. and keep it on the road. again.. this is rich coming from someone who was promoting getting an insurance job on his car to save money...

and PM MAD - youre the only volvo driver you idiot.. youve got a non turbo rx... so shut the f**k up you douchebag.

so many haters ... seriously go get f**ked hey.. i dont give a f**k about your shitfulll attitude.

lol f**kwit from perth hills.. go back to armadale you rednecked wanker.. lol

hmm.... reads like someone other than Kier is using Kier's account

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574672
Share on other sites

yeah i posted a video in bad judgement.. least goldzilla and others had the balls to give reasons why this was frowned upon without letting their self inflated ego's get in the way..

nah just over copping shit iamhe.. theres no need for it.. i accept i made a mistake. but i think others taking it too far.

if they wanna delete me for it... i dont give a shit. im over it.

if they want to stand around like a bunch of f**king children stomping their feet in a circle like an elephant cheerleading squad thats their perrogative. but i didnt come here for that childish bullshit.. so i dont really give a shit as you can see.

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574674
Share on other sites

bad judgment is exactly it, but now you're coming across as immature.

if you post something on a public forum, you should be ready for any reaction (whether good or bad)

it just appears you are getting angry now because you didn't get the reaction you were hoping for...

live and learn, not the end of the world :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574738
Share on other sites

there is no point getting angry at me, i never said i couldnt brake boost, i said that only pussy's use the brake to skid and if your car hasnt got the power to skid buy more bolt ons. mayb you read that wrong. i understand that r33 = poo and cant skid. just accept that your "friend" and your car cant skid and let it be. 1. you shouldnt be doing "doughies" on the street thus not having gutters to hit 2. you shouldnt make video evidence of your car doing skids 3. you shouldnt post said video evidence on a forum where someone on the other side of the law can find it and use it against you not to mention get you flamed for doing said "doughies" on a public road. 4. i didnt post a video of my car being stolen and the engine being buried in a big hole on a forum.

i accept that you have admitted bad judgement and thats why i will stop my rant.

good luck with the engine build. laterdays

Edited by lilcrash
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345801-skyrice/page/2/#findComment-5574763
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...