Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Take a look at your own passes of late for example. You have done about 5+ 13.4-13.5's and then a 13.0 and a 13.1

If consistency is the issue, I would challenge you to look at the two times alone that were run AFTER the nitrous/over-rich condition was fixed.

13.0 @ 115.15mph

13.1 @ 115.56mph

Within a tenth of each other and also within half of one mph.

The 3 runs before that were revving only to 6krpm as the car was over-fuelling and turning into a slug (as evidenced by the massive black smoke plumes the car expelled just before every gear change.)

The car felt GREAT on the last two passes of the day....A different car that freely revved to a peak of 7298 rpm with gear changes coming within 100 rpm of this each time. Boost was stable and even for the majority of the run and the car suffered none of it's previous bogging up top as the fuel prob was fixed with correct jetting.

Ther point is this. Every time I run the car, I am aiming to get the absolute most out of it for that run. I don't care if i have a bad launch cos something about the WHOLE run could tell me something I didnt know before. I'm gonna come out and say it that I beleive a low 12 is possible in my car with Radial tyres - RIGHT NOW. Tell me why I should aim for 12.7 when 100 years of drag racing maths and some common sense tells me otherwise?!?!? Tell me why I should be dissapointed with running 14.0 in a stuffed-up run on the way to getting there?!?!?!

As a point of interest, after 4 meets and about 15-20 different runs, I am YET to have a day or night at the track where the car runs more than 0.5sec +/- different for the session.

I'm sorry mate but it just doesn't make sense to me to aim for the mud when there's so much better there waiting.

Adrian

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would really like conformation on this.

What is the quickest ET / MPH that an R32/R33/R34 GTS-T/GTT has run with the std turbo intact and untouched?

Will also start a new post in General Auto asking the same question.

Adrian

 

I just wouldn't be going to the track aiming to knock 0.5->0.9sec off "just like that" because the mph says its possible.  

Why? The whole idea about going to the track is to see how fast you can get the car moving. If its capable, try different techniques until you get there.

If it was that easy many more people would be doing it.

Think about it... you have 12-14sec to do what u gotta do. A minor 0.1-0.3sec stuff up anywhere along that 400m is gonna ruin a good time.

I just think consistency is the key to a 'quicker' time. With a 115mph TS a 12.1 flat would not be out of the question thats a whole 0.9sec faster than what has currently been done

I think this consistency thing you're on about refers to driver ability (ie practice makes perfect). The reason why most people run a super time around slightly slower times is for that 1 super run they got everything right. What they need to do is try and mimic these actions again and again until consistency is achieved. Achieving consistency for a slower time may provide good training for a faster pass but its really selling the car and yourself short.

Hope that makes sense...

13.0 @ 115.15mph

13.1 @ 115.56mph

I'm sorry mate but it just doesn't make sense to me to aim for the mud when there's so much better there waiting.

Adrian

i totally agree there is shit tins left in it going by the mph.

what are your 60ft times outta interest?

Both of those runs were with high 2.2's.

Have gone 2.0 on more than a couple of occassions when the tyres didnt suck.

Hoping for the same mph on 2.0's then 1.8 on some Drag Radials.

Adrian

note... slicks :D

Fair enough i aint got a stock turb, but i ran 12.9 @ 109mph... with 2.1 60ft.

On your average 225 street tyre. And my car weights in the same as yours, and you have a decent advantage with your IRS setup

You need rubber mr 2rismo i think!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...