Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally after 4 and a half months my car is where it belongs. A bit worse for wear though.

The repair shop apparently couldn't be fu**ed to turn a key and then turn it again ten minutes later like I asked them to so the battery had drained. The computer seems to have reset itself along with the electronic boost controller which is beeping like a bi**h everytime boost comes on.

Back home again and this is where it all came unstuck. Reving it past 3K was impossible. It'd start backfiring and blowing black smoke like it was the Sydney bushfire all over again. I nearly choked on the petrol fumes. Mind you the petrol in her is over four months old so that can't be helping the situation.

Atm it's undrivable so I have to get her towed and tuned. I will demand they pay for this expense as it was their incompetance that got it to this state.

A couple of questions if you're still reading... Does the PFC reset if the battery drains and does it retune (learn) itself or do I have to tune it all over again? How does the petrol's age affect it? What is causing the huge amounts of black smoke that could choke an elephant?

Final word of thought, be careful and insist on idiots like the ones that fixed (???) my car, to turn it on every week and replace your petrol before you drive it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346-shes-home-and-shes-sick/
Share on other sites

george I sympathise I have n't had my car on full song for a couple of months and to see people take for ever and barstadaise my car like that I would be very angry.take it some where and get it retunned I would also be checking there is nothing wrong visibly in the engine bay. they might have got water on the afm or something. I hope all is well I can t wait to get my car back and then get the r33.

cheers

meggala

Atm it's undrivable so I have to get her towed and tuned.[/quote:8646269995]

Not that you'd be driving her anyway...RIGHT? must...resist..... hehehe

nah seriously, that sucks, they sound like they don't care about cars at all! It's not too much to ask to have a workshop treat your car with a bit of care and respect!!

Good luck with everything :)

Know the feeling George, only difference in m yscenario is that I appear to be the one at fault :x My battery is now totally drained and decided it would leak acid all over me, my garage on the boot of my car when I pulled her off to take it and have it recharged. A battery less than a month old should not do this right ? :roll: I'm looking for the receipt like a madman

i couldn't resist. after 4 and a half months i had to drive her around the block a couple of times. it's impossible to resist :twisted:

took the rocker cover off after fighting with it for 15 minutes. the plugs were platinums and they were burnt and had deposits of oil. also stank on petrol. bought new coppers with urmines help. i was going to drain the fuel tank and line but i thought i'd best take it in for a service. don't want to take any chances.

Onarun. When you cant rev past 3 grand and you blow heaps of black smoke then your Air flow meter is gone. That are the symptoms of a dead AFM and the reason why the engine does that is to run extra rich and protect the car as it doesnt get any signal from the AFM and it needs to protect it by going into limp mode.

Guys (and Shell)

I got my car out of the crash shop yesterday with fresh paint and panels, when they took it off for a wheel alignment, a heap of blue smoke came out of the exhaust. Any ideas anyone?

My theory is when I had my stack the motor shut off straight away making the turbo cook letting oil past the seals? Read ->stuffed

The battery was dead as well, try getting one of those suckers out with the strut bar in place :?

a heap of blue smoke came out of the exhaust. Any ideas anyone?[/quote:2fbb44f0cf]

There's some basic things you can tell about an engine's condition by the colour of the exhaust emissions ... blueish tinge - usually oil.

The battery was dead as well, try getting one of those suckers out with the strut bar in place :?[/quote:2fbb44f0cf]

Hehe, had to do it yesterday. Try getting one out past the strut bar, having acid all over your hands, your boot and your garage floor .... things been in there a month and it's now dead as a door nail. Not sure if my alternator is gone or if I have something using power when the car is off. Brand new battery though and even my battery charger wont charge it as it seys it fails to hold a charge.

JiMbO,

The motor's still in good nick and with these wintery days I managed to wind it off the clock easily on a back road this arvo.

If I wasn't at the servo without tools, I would've pulled the strut bar out before changing it over. I'm not too keen on the idea of the battery not having a vent tube either. Electricals in a confined space with a lead acid battery (hydrogen) = Boom! 8O

Because some nissan genius decided to put the battery in the boot (probly for weight distribution?), the original equiptment battery was sealed with a ventilation tube running down the left hand side of the battery and through the floor. Have a look for a rubber grommet where the tube used to pass through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...