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R32 Speed Limiter


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I have searched, and found plenty of posts saying to cut the Yellow wire #53... But have not found one saying anyone has actually done it and it has worked, with no side effects, it is an R32 GTR, so no Auto, and Hicas has been removed, so no problems there. I am competing on Saturday at Mount Panorama, so if I cut the yellow wire, will it remove the limiter and ensure everything else operates as per usual, thanks!

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i could be wrong but i think that cutting the speed sensor wire to the ecu isn't 100% without side effects. i'm not sure about the skylines, but i think some cars have slight mapping tweaks for different speeds. i'm honestly not sure though. i just remember hearing a tuner talking to someone about speed load settings. i could be imagining things tho.

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if your going to use it for motorsport, why not just purchase yourself a nice haltech ecu and be done wiht it, or even the power fc from memory can remove of it. if all that dont work, get a SLD or so called speed limit defender, there are heaps available for the r32gtr's. and cost about 140-200 bucks.

here is one:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HKS-SPEED-LIMIT-DEF...=item4154ada711

Edited by Bronx
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Need this done by Saturday for minimal if not $0, I have an ECU there that will remove it which I have been trying to get into a dyno snd tuned, but with finding out yesterday I had a blocked radiator and possibly stuffed thermostat, any ECU options are out the window, hence cutting wires... Would love to hear from someone who has done this...

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Well worst that could happen is that the car didn't work, and I could solder the wire back together, so I cut it.. For anyone needing/wanting to remove the speed limiter for motorsport use, simply cut the yellow wire, (#53, go down the left hand set of pins from the bolt hole, there are 2 sections, the third from the top of the bottom section is 53, or just search google for the pin outs) and the speed limiter will be disabled, I have had no adverse effects (I have no Hicas already) but do it at your own risk.

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Well worst that could happen is that the car didn't work, and I could solder the wire back together, so I cut it.. For anyone needing/wanting to remove the speed limiter for motorsport use, simply cut the yellow wire, (#53, go down the left hand set of pins from the bolt hole, there are 2 sections, the third from the top of the bottom section is 53, or just search google for the pin outs) and the speed limiter will be disabled, I have had no adverse effects (I have no Hicas already) but do it at your own risk.

I have heard that it messes with the hicas, because what you have done is cut the speed sensor wire to the ecu. So the ecu doesnt know what speed you doing. Steering wheel hasnt felt heavier? (someone clarify this)

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Well worst that could happen is that the car didn't work, and I could solder the wire back together, so I cut it.. For anyone needing/wanting to remove the speed limiter for motorsport use, simply cut the yellow wire, (#53, go down the left hand set of pins from the bolt hole, there are 2 sections, the third from the top of the bottom section is 53, or just search google for the pin outs) and the speed limiter will be disabled, I have had no adverse effects (I have no Hicas already) but do it at your own risk.

actually the worse that could happen would be that the car wouldn't be using the appropriate mapping and run lean and damage the engine.

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You are one of the people on here I would have listened to Marc, but varying mix based on speed makes no sense at all for a few reasons... My car has Hicas disabled so could not have effected Hicas,

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Found this out the hard way at least 15 years back, the ecu needs speed input.

The car would go fine one day, sluggish the next with no obvious reasons.

Connect the speed signal, reset ecu and all fixed.

Martin Donnon who is pretty switched onto ecu's also found out the hard way,

An old Zoom write up>>

post-73571-0-02943000-1291844298_thumb.jpg

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You are one of the people on here I would have listened to Marc, but varying mix based on speed makes no sense at all for a few reasons... My car has Hicas disabled so could not have effected Hicas,

ok so i rang my tuner mate to ask him. he said that as far as he is aware the stock ecu has 3 maps. there is the idle map, a transition map and the full map. the idle map is what is used when the car is in neutral. when you put it into gear the car registers that it's in gear via the neutral switch in the gearbox (this is why autos than have been converted to manual can make less power than a proper manual since they make the computer think it's in neutral all the time - since the autos will only start in park or neutral - so are stuck on the idle map). the transition map is similar to the full map but not as much timing as well as a few other things different. the full map is activated by the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). the old memory is getting a little bit fuzzy at this point, but i'm pretty sure i have this the right way round. the full map also has things like your closed loop o2 sensor feedback as well as fuel cut on deceleration.

to sum that up a bit, my mate said that power wise it will be stuff all difference in power between the transition map and the full map, but he also said to stop being a tight-arse and do it properly, LOL. he said to either go a VSM, speed cut defender or the best option is to go an aftermarket ecu, even if it's only a nistune.

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Awaiting delivery of PFC, was only a stop gap because of radiator issues stopping it from making the Dyno, end of the day though an ecu sees the air going through the AFMs and the amount of fuel coming out of the chambers and adjusts on that. Road speed cannot really be used as an accurate variable because 100k with a 20k head wind or 20k tail wind gives you a massive difference in air coming in, hence AFMs.. In 2 weeks it will be trivial anyway

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